Gluten-Free Living with Aran Goyoaga

As you stroll down the aisles of your local market or peruse the case at your local bakery, there’s a chance you’ve seen it, a sign advertising gluten-free products. While there’s been an uptick in the general absence of gluten, we haven’t found much talk about living a gluten-free lifestyle — what it means, and what it can do. So, TLK asked gluten-free guru, Aran Goyoaga, author of Small Plates, Sweet Treats: My Family’s Journey to Gluten-Free Cooking, to walk us through her experience with gluten-free living. 

But first, some basics.

Gluten is a protein that is found in wheat, barley, and rye and gluten-related products like bulgar, faro, kamut, spelt, and trticale. Because of cross contamination, it can also be found in oat (thought oats don’t technically contain gluten). Anything made from these grains has gluten, and includes common items like bread, cereals, pasta, lunch meats, salad dressings, soups, snack items like tortilla chips, cookies, and crackers, and beer. About 1 percent of Americans suffer from Celiac disease, a gluten-intolerant condition that causes a painful inflammation in the small intestine, but many more suffer from gluten sensitivities that can go lead to uncomfortable symptoms. 

Next, Goyoaga shares her family’s story, talks about what foods to eliminate and why, and shares gluten-free recipes. 

How did you realize you and your children had a gluten allergy?

It all started in 2009 when I was pregnant with my daughter. During my pregnancy, I started experiencing symptoms of Meniere’s disease including hearing loss, tinnitus, vertigo, nausea and vomiting and doctors told me there was really nothing I could do, I couldn’t even take any medication at the time because I was nursing. I felt helpless. Somehow, I came across a blog written by a functional neurologist where he spoke about the correlation of food intolerances, gluten specifically, and vertigo. He began treating me and it’s through him that I found that I have genetic gluten sensitivity. That doctor also suggested that I have my son tested. My son had been experiencing occasional migraines starting at age 3, which I thought was a bit alarming as he was so young. The migraines subsided when we began eating gluten-free and I noticed that they would return if he did eat it. His test came back positive.

What was your initial reaction, as a chef, to changing your diet to one without gluten?

I knew quite a lot about gluten-free diets as my best friend and her family had been eating like that for years. I felt the transition was easy and being a chef, I had always loved to experiment with new ingredients so I was excited about the possibilities. I was already familiar with many of the alternative grains so it never felt depriving. However, the challenge came at the very beginning. When my doctor diagnosed me with gluten sensitivity, I went on a total elimination diet of no gluten, no grains at all, dairy, soy, sugar, caffeine, chocolate, nuts. This was a measure to eliminate all inflammation in my body, which worked really well. I immediately felt so much better, but it was hard to be so strict. I slowly introduced all these foods back into my diet slowly after a few weeks, except for gluten, which I cannot eat to this day as vertigo returns if I consume it.

Had you done any gluten-free cooking before?

I come from the Basque Country [Spain] where I would say the style of cooking is naturally gluten-free most of the time. Lots of fresh vegetables, fish, legumes. This is the way I grew up eating. I had also experimented with some gluten-free baking before and I was familiar with many of the characteristics with gluten-free flours.

Next up, the first steps in cutting out gluten and some surprising gluten-free finds.

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What are the first steps in cutting out gluten?

First of all, I always tell everyone that if you are going to go on a gluten-free diet for health reasons, you must eliminate it 100%. There is no cheating, because if you are indeed reacting to it, your body will react to it even if it’s a miniscule particle. So, to improve your health and see results, you must eliminate it completely. 

It’s also very important to start reading all labels to check for ingredients. There are many foods that you wouldn’t suspect would have it, but indeed do. Read labels always.

When eating out, ask to talk to the chef because many places use soup bases and flour to thicken soups and stews. For instance, one would never think that sweet potato fries can have gluten, but indeed many restaurants buy frozen packaged sweet potato fries that are coated with wheat starch. Don’t be afraid to ask questions.

What foods absolutely have to be cut out?

Gluten is a protein found in wheat, barley, rye, spelt, farro so obviously any food that contains these grains must be avoided. Breads, pastas, beer, vinegars… anything made with them.

What are some foods that surprisingly contain gluten?

Soy sauce, packaged foods, seasonings, processed meats, beer, vinegars, traditional pasta, breads, cakes, desserts, breakfast cereals, herbal teas that contain barley, even noodles that might say buckwheat noodles are mixed with wheat pasta…. Always check labels.

What are some foods that surprisingly don’t contain gluten?

Rice, corn, oats, teff, millet, and buckwheat and quinoa, which are technically seeds.

Was it hard for you and your family to make the switch to gluten-free living? How did your kids handle the change?

The change wasn’t difficult at all because I was so ill that I was really committed at getting healthy again, which I immediately did. My children were small and so it was easy for them. My son has consumed gluten after and he knows it makes him feel lousy so he has learned to avoid it, which is really easy given all the options nowadays. We live in Seattle and eating gluten-free is very easy.

What has been the most surprising discovery you’ve made after going gluten free?

I have really enjoyed learning to bake with alternative flours, discovering a world of flavor and texture.

What has been the most satisfying effect of going gluten-free?

To be vertigo-free again and healthy. I have been “glutened” a few times since giving it up and every time I have become sick afterwards. It is a horrible feeling and once contaminated, it takes a while to recover. I like understanding how my body works and what I can do to feel better.

You wrote a cookbook on living a gluten-free lifestyle. What has been the response?

The response has been great. People who were already living gluten-free have embraced it and have turned to it for inspiration and new ideas. On the other hand many people who have discovered through learning about the book that perhaps they are also having issues with gluten and has helped them give it up.

What’s your favorite gluten free dish?

Actually many of my favorite dishes are naturally gluten-free like tortilla de patatas or arroz con leche. And I also love the swiss chard, pear and gruyere tart in the book. Possibly my favorite tart I have ever made.

Ready to try it for yourself? Check out Goyoaga’s delicious recipes: Pear, Apple, and Fennel Salad; Crispy Serrano Hame, Goat Cheese, and Pesto Bocadillos; and this Potato, Celery, and Sunchoke Cream Soup.