It has been a banner year for Latin cuisine around the world: Peru is still turning out fresh new culinary talent in droves; Mexico is at the forefront of cutting-edge flavors and technique; and the US is seeing a dramatic rise in chefs dedicated to authentic cooking in cities across the country. Our prediction: Latin cuisine, thanks to a handful of up-and-coming chefs, will continue to pick up steam, especially in North America. Here are six chefs we think will make a difference in 2014.
The Chef: Katie Button, Cúrate, Asheville, NC
How’s this for an Iberian-influenced restaurant resume: after working as a server at Jose Andres’s Café Altantico and minibar in Washington, DC, Button joined the front-of-the-house team at el bulli—as the first American in its history—before moving on to cook at Bazaar by Jose Andres in Los Angeles. In 2011, she took her immense experience and opened the tapas bar Cúrate with her parents.
Why We’re Watching: As a recent semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef Award and a finalist for the Food & Wine People’s Choice for Best New Chef in the Southeast, we feel the accolades are just getting started for this 30 year-old up-and-comer.
The Chef: Kevin Roth (right), La Estacion, Fajardo, Puerto Rico
After spending years in some of mainland U.S.’s best kitchens and working with legends such as Wolfgang Puck, Bradley Ogden and Katy Sparks, Roth left his New York City home behind six years ago after falling in love with Puerto Rico. He now helms one of the island’s most popular restaurants.
Why We’re Watching: This summer, locals were stunned when in a blind tasting, the gringo took first prize in the lechon category at the Cattleman’s BBQ Caribbean BBQ competition. Most fascinating: Roth cooks his lechon in a Ford Bronco, repurposed as a pig oven. His ingenious methods and endless improvements to the restaurant, a former gas station, have us excited for what he’ll do next year. We wouldn’t be surprised if there were some expansion plans afoot.
Next, more chefs to watch from New York to Puerto Rico to Chicago…
[pagebreak]The Chef: Hugo Orozco Carrillo, La Slowteria, Brooklyn, New York
Just in from the beaches of Tulum to the shores of Carroll Gardens, this chef is shaking up the current Mexican scene in New York with a newly opened restaurant that is bucking the taqueria trend and instead, following the principles of Slow Food.
Why We’re Watching: Spots like La Slowteria are waking up New York palates and we predict that La Slowteria won’t remain under-the-radar much longer. 2014 will see a growing vibrancy of modern Mexican cuisine in general, thanks to the inspiration of trailblazers like Carrillo.
The Chef: José Enrique Montes (left), José Enrique, Miel and Capital, San Juan, Puerto Rico
2013 was the year that introduced the young Puerto Rican chef, who was a finalist for a James Beard Foundation Award and named a Food & Wine Best New Chef, to the world. His inventive, sophisticated approach to homey local cuisine, such as alcapurrias stuffed with crabmeat, make his flagship San Juan’s hottest seat.
Why We’re Watching: While Montes has gotten his share of attention last year, we’re looking forward to his empire expanding onto the island of Vieques with a restaurant forthcoming in the stylish new El Blok, a LEED-certified boutique hotel. We suspect that other offers are coming at the chef faster than he can consider them; and we’re looking forward to more announcements of his growth in the coming year.
The Chef: Natalie Oswald (right), Chilam Balam, Chicago
Starting out as a part-time pastry chef at Chilan Balam when it opened in 2009, Oswald quickly worked her way up to full time pastry chef and eventually to executive chef, filling the shoes of one-time Top Chef-testant Chuy Valencia in 2012.
Why We’re Watching: Her mastery of Mexican flavors came just as quickly as her meteoric rise in the kitchen ranks: Oswald, a Toledo native, had little previous experience with Mexican flavors. Early externships at Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill and Topolobampo got her hooked on South-of-the-Border food, and her extremely quick study—she’s only 26 years old—points to a star-studded future.
The Chef: Ignacio Mattos, Estela, New York
Mattos stands out for not only being one of the few Uruguayan chefs in NYC, but for blending the comfort of a casual neighborhood eatery with groundbreaking fine dining, as evidenced in dishes such as egg with butter beans, cured tuna and harissa.
Why We’re Watching: When visiting the restaurant, opened within the year, it’s fun to play “Spot the Food World Luminary,” as everyone who is everyone is there: critics, magazine editors, blog editors, and dedicated followers of dining fashion. We smell a James Beard Foundation Award nomination for Best New Restaurant in 2014.