Visiting Rio’s CADEG Market

Cooking classes and self-guided restaurant tours are a great way to sink your teeth into the culinary scene in Rio de Janeiro, but a flavorful field trip to the CADEG (pronounced “kah-day-gee”) in Benfica shouldn’t be missed.

Shopping

Also known as the Centro de Abastecimento do Estado da Guanabara (Supply Center of Guanabara State), the CADEG is a one million square foot complex that’s home to the city’s biggest wholesale market and primary supply hub for the area’s restaurants and hotels.

Among the 700-plus stalls and offices, you’ll discover more than 350 vendors offering bargain-priced kitchen supplies, beverages, produce, meat and seafood. Expats and long-term visitors flock to CADEG to stock up on foodstuffs at a considerable savings to the supermarket while those on quick visits enjoy a one-stop-shop for savory souvenirs plus plenty of opportunities for people watching. A hangar-sized floral market provides a perfect backdrop for snapshots and a chance to pick up bunches of blooms for mere pocket change.

Dining

From luncheonettes with countertop service to sit-down meals served family style, there are dozens of eateries scattered about the building to sample from, each using the freshest ingredients sourced onsite. Most are casual restaurants that use adjacent covered walkways to create makeshift dining areas with plastic tables and chairs. One stunning exception is Brasa Show in store #110 where the market’s palettes, wine boxes and barrels were upcycled to create the thematic interior, highlighted by a vintage yellow VW van. If you aren’t enticed by the house specialty – golden-hued crispy galeto (seasoned roast chicken), the ample menu of seafood, beef, pork and poultry dishes is rounded out with more than 20 different petiscos (small plates) to please every palate.

Weekend Entertainment

Join the droves of Portuguese immigrants animating the Saturday scene at Cantinho das Concertinas (Concertinas Corner – named for a musical instrument used in the Minho region of Portugal similar to an accordion) in store #11 to enjoy traditional Portuguese pastries and bacalhau (salted cod fish) accompanied by live musicians onstage all afternoon.

The main marketplace may be closed on Sundays but you’ll find Barsa restaurant open from noon to 4 p.m. in stores four and six, mixing colonial fusion fare along with live chorinho (little cry) performers serving up a bluesy musical style with accordions and guitars, affectionately called “the New Orleans jazz of Brazil.” Adventurous eaters can try house specialties like rabbit casserole or galinha molho pardo – a rich chicken stew thickened with the bird’s own blood.

Getting There

Although there are plenty of public buses and vans that service the Benfica area, the CADEG is nestled among favelas (slums) in an area that rarely sees tourists, outside of those visiting CADEG. If you aren’t traveling with a local who’s familiar with the city, play it safe and invest R$50 (approximately $25 US) to hail a taxi from the Zona Sul to take you there.

Visiting Tips

Many restaurants keep later hours, but the flower market and most CADEG retailers close up shop at noon. It’s best to plan this trip as an early-morning excursion to give you ample browsing time before enjoying a lunch.

Nearby Sights

While you’re in the area, check out the Rio Zoo and National Museum at Quinta da Boa Vista (park with the beautiful view), located less than two miles southeast of the CADEG in São Cristóvão. This sprawling historical landmark is the former home of Dom João VI, the king of Portugal who presided over his empire while residing within.