Victor Albisu on Cuba, Peru, & Del Campo

Victor Albisu has singlehandedly put the spotlight on South American food; elevating the cuisine to a level of style and concept that has never been done before. Here, the chef and owner of Del Campo shares how his blended heritage and passion for European cuisine influenced who he is in the kitchen.

TLK: What was it like growing up half Cuban and half Peruvian and being immersed in Latin culture from such an early age?

Albisu: It was essential to my upbringing and theory on food to see two different cultures come together. I always respected the integrity of each separately. I like to think of Latin cuisine as a coming together of individual cuisines, like regions in Italy, France, or Spain.

TLK: How would you describe Cuban food versus Peruvian food?

Albisu: Cuban fare is a lot louder, with more brash flavors that are very bold. It has a Spanish and African connection, whereas Peruvian is more Japanese or European. To me, it has never made any sense to mix it. I just honor each individual cuisine and what they are.

TLK: How important is your Latin heritage to you?

Albisu: I find the importance of Latin heritage in my life paramount; from what we eat and how we live to how we interact with each other. I hope to pass that appreciation onto my children because more than anything, I want to educate my kids about culture, especially on the food side. Hopefully down the road they can share that with their kids.

TLK: When did you realize that you wanted to work with food?

Albisu: My family owned a Latin market and butcher shop, so I was always surrounded by food and even served as an apprentice. I never really had a choice; every day was about food. It was the center point of my life.

Next, Albisu shares his biggest inspiration… [pagebreak]

TLK: Who has been your biggest inspiration in your culinary career?

Albisu: My mother and grandfather definitely lit the fire at the start of my culinary career. I still cook for them today; in memory of my grandfather, with whom I first cooked a pig in the ground with, and I honor all of the things that my mother showed me.

TLK: You trained and lived in Paris for a while. What was that like?

Albisu: Living in Paris was amazing. I miss it every day. I trained at the Le Cordon Bleu School in French cuisine. Being surrounded by Parisian food and markets, it was so different from the U.S. because in Europe, it’s all about food; it’s a part of the culture.

TLK: You recently came back from a trip to Punta del Este in Uruguay for the Food and Wine Festival. What was that like?

Albisu: I have traveled many times to South America and grew up around Uruguayan culture, so as soon as I landed I felt a connection to the country; I was a part of it and not an outsider. It definitely deepened my connection to South America.

TLK: What does Uruguay have to offer?

Albisu: I really wish that more people knew about the country and its delicious street food. I grew up traveling to Europe and wherever you went you would find fancy restaurants and continental fares. But in Uruguay, people are proud of their street food and its simplicity. The people there are starting to realize that they have something unique in their hands. 

TLK: You have brought your love of Latin food to Del Campo. How is that going?

Albisu: I cook from a deeper place and I like to explore the influences of cultures in food. At Del Campo, we have actually sparked a trend in South American steakhouses across the country and I’m glad to showcase this cuisine that will hopefully one day be regarded as one of the best in the world.

Next, Albisu's advice for new cooks… [pagebreak]

TLK: What menu items would you recommend to first time customers at Del Campo?

Albisu: The two menu items I would recommend are the Grilled Octopus Causa, which is one of our famous dishes, and the Strube Ranch Rolled Wagyu skirt steak.

TLK: What do you do when you’re not in the kitchen?

Albisu: I spend time with my family and two sons whenever I can. They are huge tennis players. I’m also a big music guy and I jam on my guitar and go to concerts whenever I can. I follow Pearl Jam around and recently saw them in Amsterdam.

TLK: How would you describe yourself as a chef?

Albisu: At the end of the day, I’m a humble man who cooks from a place of comfort, but I’m always intrigued by the constant evolution of food. I never look back, I don’t write recipes down and I don’t take pictures because I don’t want to remember food, I want to rediscover it. I am proud to be able to cook in front of a stove every day and really honor the food that came before me.

TLK: Any words of advice to aspiring chefs looking to break into the culinary world?

Albisu: They should possess two traits: patience and passion. It’s important to find a style and way of cooking that you can be faithful to and never waver, that’s the key. It’s a tough profession and you need to be prepared to make sacrifices and work even more than you think you’re going to work. If you can do that, then you’re on your way.