Unusual Pan Latin Wine Pairings

In February 2012, my boyfriend Pablo and I founded de Porres, a Brooklyn-based dinner series, with the goal of hosting the wonderfully curious. Our menus feature both modern and traditional takes on foods from his native Peru and desserts inspired by my American South. In the beginning our beverage program (if you will…) consisted of pleasant but unremarkable bottles of red and white wines. As our dinners progressed we began to seek out wines deserving of our food and guests. But the problem became understanding how to adequately pair Peruvian cuisine.

It’s not surprising that the world of wine is a Eurocentric one. While any wine professional worth his or her salt can handily pair pot au feu, recommendations for dishes dominated by staples from the Latin pantry like cilantro (an herb Julia Child complained ‘tasted like soap’), citrus, and chile peppers, are simply speculative. With the mention of Peru, I’d be directed to wines from Chile or Argentina or if I were preparing something spicy I’d be steered more towards Rieslings. While there are certainly times a dish might demand an Argentinian Torrontes or Chilean Carmenères, one need not be fearful of thinking outside the box when pairing. It is my view that the eclectic flavors of Pan-Latin cuisine demand equally dynamic wines.

Tokaji Furmint Sec For Every Occasion

At de Porres, no wine has been as indispensable as Tokaji Furmint Sec (not to be mistaken with the storied dessert wine from the same region of Tokaji, Hungary). It was a hurricane that brought it to us. With Sandy said to be approaching, Pablo and I cancelled the elaborate meal we’d planned and, instead, had two de Porres regulars over for scallop tiradito. Sasha came with Viognier (Domaine les Grands Bois 2011) and Christopher with Királyudavar Tokaji Furmint Sec 2009. A taste test ensued. While the former was competent, it was the latter that enchanted the table.

Királyudavar Tokaji Furmint Sec is dry, honeyed, tropical, and deliriously aromatic. It can handle the heat of aji amarillo and other chilies and will not whither if paired with citrus, making it a perfect choice for ceviche. Additionally, Furmint lends itself well to cilantro, spice, and garlic. Consider it when seafood mofongo, arroz con pollo, or Mexican style corn on the cob are on the menu.

Királyudavar Tokaji Furmint Sec either from 2009, 2010, or 2011 is rarely priced below $22. Its elegance justifies the price tag. However, “Evolúció” Tokaji Furmint 2011 from producer Love Over Money and Chateau Pajzos Tokaji Furmint 2011, at under $16 each, are lovely.

Sparkling Wine and Fried Foods

In The Seven Year Itch, Marilyn Monroe’s character professes a love for champagne with potato chips. She describes it as “elegant”. And, she’s right. Salty, fried foods call out for the refreshing acidity of sparkling wines. Further, there is something fun about bringing the decadence of bubbles to humble fare.

We’ve paired Cava with panko crusted deep-fried chicken hearts and sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé with yucca chips and salsa de huancaína to fantastic results. 

Alcapurrias, empanadas, croquetas, and chicarrones de pollo are all better with Cava.

Casas del Mar Cava is a favorite of ours and, at $11, a bargain.

Next up, we tackle salty pork and dessert wine pairings. 

Sherry for Salty Pork 

Pablo and I first came upon Oloroso Sherry at New York’s peerless D’España Vinos y Más when shopping for Christmas at my grandmother’s expansive Southern table. The shopkeeper recommended Lustau “Don Nuno” Dry Oloroso Sherry ($29), confident of Sherry’s versatile, food friendly nature. She added that it is especially delicious with pork. Days later, in Louisville, Kentucky, her words rang true.

Whether with country ham, glazed ham, or crown roast of pork it was irresistible. Try it the next time you’re serving a well-seasoned pork dish like Chocolate Chile Glazed Pork, lechón, or pernil. 

Along with the Lustau, Wisdom & Warter Amontillada Sherry ($10.99) has charmed many de Porres guests.

Dessert

Too often, on the subject of pairing, postres are left out. A shame, considering how lovely a nightcap the right dessert wine can make. To pair pan-Latin classics like flan, arroz con leche, and alfajores, seek out fortified wines with notes of caramel, dried fruit, and mocha.

Australia’s Yalumba Antique Tawny Port ($17.99) certainly fits the bill, as does César Florido Moscatel “Especial” Sherry ($9.99, half bottle) and Lustau Pedro Ximenez “San Emilio” Sherry ($28.99).