Take Your Glass for a Swirl in Buenos Aires

These are good times for wine drinkers in Argentina. The popularity of Malbec abroad has led to a boom in oenotourism and a well-matured industry is producing an ever-expanding variety of superb wines. Terroir and local expression are gaining emphasis and winemakers are testing their newfound liberty with comparative tastings of the country’s inky superstar. From classic new world high alcohol beasts to fresh and subtle charmers, there is also plenty of talk of Patagonian Pinots and Merlots, Cabernet Franc from Valle de Uco, Syrah from San Juan and of course those surprisingly good Cabs. White wines are equally plentiful, with ample varietals shining in the shadows of Argentina’s new white hope, Torrontés.

Wine lists throughout the Buenos Aires have been primped and preened by an enthusiastic and talented young generation of sommeliers, and wine shops dazzle with hundreds of labels clamoring for attention. This newfound variety is a blessing, but it is easy for a newcomer to get lost between the superb and the mediocre. To help get a handle on the country’s bounty, let’s look at some of the best wine tasting options in Buenos Aires.

0800 Vinos. Anchorena 695, corner Tucumán, Abasto.

This wine cellar is run by Nigel Tollerman, an English financier who gave up his career for study at the renowned Argentine School for Sommeliers. Tollerman has since become a fixture on the local wine landscape, and has an astounding grasp on Argentine wines, wineries, and winemakers. He holds irregular Thursday tastings in the cellar of his shop in Abasto which makes for a great atmosphere. The tasting includes 6 to 8 wines and you’ll usually get a stunner or two.

Price: ARG$ 80

Date / Time:  Irregular, consult his Facebook page.

Aldos. Moreno 372, San Telmo.

Aldo Graziani, former vice president of the Argentine Sommelier’s Association, along with a legion of nine sommeliers, selects the over 500 wines available in his store by blind tasting and offers them for sale alongside his menu at wine store prices. With tastings of 3 wines and an appetizer for ARG$95, they have a great selection of wines by the glass and a daily happy hour between 5:00 and 8:30 PM. Tuesday tastings feature an invited winery and on Wednesdays there is live jazz between 7 and 9 PM.

Price: ARG$95 | Tues tasting: varies, ARG$70 – 100

Date / Time: Daily 11:00 until Midnight (1 AM weekends) | Tuesdays, 7 PM

Anuva. Palermo Soho, address given on reservation.

Anuva is a highly professional outfit dedicated to easing tourists into the world of Argentine wine. In their beautifully lit, spacious loft in Palermo, they receive groups of 2 to 30 for tastings of five wines with pairings. Entertaining and educational, informal tastings offer an interesting range of varietals from boutique producers along basic food pairings. Pours are generous and the atmosphere well suited to groups of friends curios about Argentine wines. Make your arrangements in advance.

Price: US $52

Date / Time:  Flexible

Casa Coupage. Soler 5518, Palermo.

Very often the name Casa Coupage is closely followed by the phrase, “the best wine and food experience in Buenos Aires.” Although they host a monthly tasting of four wines plus carefully designed food pairings, timing is irregular and places are usually snapped up by passionate regulars. Another option is a flight of wines taken with dinner or the nine-course tasting menu in the closed door restaurant (a home turned discreet dining location). Owners Santiago and Inés, along with two other staff – all professional sommeliers – wait the tables with impeccable subtlety creating an unforgettable dining experience well worth the cost.

Price: Monthly tasting – ARG$200. Flights: 3 – ARG$120 / 5 – ARG$160 / 7 – ARG$190

Date / Time: Flexible / Restaurant – Wed to Sat 20:30 until late.

Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161, Recoleta.

An icon on the Buenos Aires wine landscape, Gran Bar Danzon has been serving up the best of Argentine wine for the last 14 years. A huge list of some 300 local wines is the focus of this stylish spot popular for its tapas. Although they don’t offer tastings, they have 20 wines available to order by the glass, which are rotated every season. The first two hours of every evening are happy hour and two glasses (changed regularly) go for ARG$56. Don’t miss the Patagonian oysters, a perfect excuse to try out a couple of Argentina’s whites.

Price: Varies

Date / Time: Daily from 7 PM till late. (From 8 PM, weekends,)

Lo de Joaquin Alberdi. Jorge Luis Borges 1772, Palermo Soho.

Everything a wine shop should be Lo de Joaquin Alberdi offers customers a glass of whatever happens to be open at moment of entry, just before getting down to business. Owner Joaquin is quite simply a legend, inviting customers into the world of wine; a warm, human and romantic guide that helps them navigate through every step of a wine purchase – choosing, storing and pairing. With weekly tastings by invited wineries (warning for non-Spanish speakers, you may get a little lost), you can also arrange private tastings in the language of your choice, designed to fit your budget and tastes.

Price: Regular tastings: ARG$100 / Private: ARG$120+

Date / Time: Thursdays. Private tastings by reservation.

Siete Spirits / Bar du Marché. Nicaragua 5942 | 5946, Palermo Hollywood

Another gem of a wine shop is Siete Spirits; little more than a nook off the street in Palermo, it is a little paradise for wine drinkers. An excellent and interesting selection of wines for sale (from seven continents, hence then name) is focused on an 80% local list and overseen by Diego, a young sommelier with top-notch knowledge. Every Thursday, they open wine for free tasting and offer great discounts on single bottles. Next door is sister wine bar Bar du Marché, which shares a fair amount of the wine collection and boasts over 50 wines by the glass or carafe. Don’t miss their tasting of three wines and three cheeses run by sommelier Juan Pablo Villar.

Price: Free | ARG$80, Bar du Marché tasting

Date / Time: Thursdays between 6:00 and 8:30 | 9:00 – Midnight

Vinoteca. Avenida Alvear 1661, Recoleta.

Set in the lavish Palacio Duhau, Park Hyatt, this spot is something of a temple to Argentine wine. With over 500 labels (mostly Malbec) to choose from, sommelier Natalia Escuderohas has plenty of room to play. Combined with cheese master Althea Scaramucci’s selections, they offer a high-level tasting. The cheeses are all locally sourced and brilliantly paired.

Price: 2 Wines – ARG$150 / 3 wines – ARG$180 / 4 wines – ARG$210 (Malbec)

Date / Time: Flexible, daily 6 PM until late.

Wine Tour Urbano. Varied addresses.

Easily the most unique wine tasting offering in Buenos Aires, Wine Tour Urbano takes wine out of a shop or bar setting, making it urban, social and fun. Ten to fifteen wineries are invited to present two wines in locations as varied as fashion boutiques, design stores, galleries or even historical monuments. Some 100 – 150 participants gather at a meeting place, only receiving a map and a tasting glass. Set free to wander between tastings, each shop hosting one winery, this wine scavenger hunt makes for a great social experience and broad overview of Argentina’s wines.

Price: ARG$150

Date / Time: 3 Events/season, check website for details.