At the Table with Melissa Guerra

Melissa Guerra doesn’t just talk farm to table; she lives it. A self-taught culinary expert and food historian specializing in the foods of the Americas, Guerra is an 8th generation Texan, born and raised on a working cattle ranch in South Texas. Her second cookbook, Dishes from the Wild Horse Desert: Norteño Cuisine of South Texas, was a finalist for a James Beard Award and an IACP award (both in the Foods of the Americas category), and in 2011, Lonely Planet named her Latin American kitchenware and ingredients store San Antonio’s #1 shopping destination. 

A prolific cooking show host and food writer – her TV show “The Texas Provincial Kitchen” aired on PBS stations across the U.S. – Guerra was full of ideas when it came to Latina Magazine’s August issue. (We asked her to develop exclusive recipes for the magazine in celebration of TheLatinKitchen.com’s two-year anniversary; she’s been with us since the beginning!)

Should we nod to summer’s heat with a menu of spicy, sexy dishes? Or should we keep it cool with salads, refrescos, and light, late summer fare? In the end, Guerra created a well-balanced menu that combines spicy and cool to perfection.

But what does she cook for her family? What dish from her grandmother’s kitchen does she most crave? And what does she eat when no one else is looking? We put these questions and more to our August issue’s featured chef. Here’s what she had to say.

Next, what Guerra craves and what she can't live without… [pagebreak]

Dish you crave from your abuela: 

Both grandmothers were excellent cooks – one Southern U.S., the other tipo norteño – Mexican ranch style cooking. I spent a lot of time in both kitchens. In terms of dishes, I miss caldito de frijol in my baby-sized tin cup, and pot roast with mashed potatoes served on ruffle edged turquoise blue plates. More than anything, I miss the sounds, the aromas, and the love.

Secret ingredient to make a dish pop: 

Time – slow down when you are cooking, spend more time shopping for the perfect tomato, sit at the table a little bit longer…Less bam, more Barry White.

Favorite Latin restaurant in the U.S.: 

El Naranjo in Austin, hands down.

Favorite Latin restaurant in the world:

We were staying with a friend on her hacienda in Tlaxcala, where her family has been raising fighting bulls for generations. She offered to baby sit, and my husband and I ran to town to shop for some items we needed while we traveled. On the way back, we stumbled upon this little generator-lit trailer, where a family of women were making tortas de milanesa, stuffed with saltine-breaded cutlets, loaded with lime flavored mayo, pickled onions and jalapeños. We ate order after order, watching Maria Mercedes on the trailer’s TV, as we sat next to truckers, and tired field hands. I still remember the dark velvet sky, the stars, the blue and yellow fluorescent lights, the scent of humid, moist earth, and the sweet, unwitnessed moments of companionship I shared with my hubby. I hope I can get back to that trailer someday.

Favorite city to eat in: 

San Antonio has the best chefs in the nation. The last ten years has seen an incredible gathering of world class culinary talent. With the new Culinary Institute of America in town, the San Antonio food scene is just going to get better.

Secret to a perfect dinner party: 

Most sauces taste better when made at least a day in advance, so do yourself a solid and cook either the day or weekend before. Then you can enjoy chatting with your guests as you casually assemble your meal.

Biggest food indulgence: 

Salt and Vinegar potato chips. If I had to start my culinary career over, I would probably start a potato chip factory. Zapps are the best.

Favorite vegetable: 

I love arugula and can’t ever seem to find it. Brown mushrooms and chile poblano seem to show up when I want a meal with panache. And the tedious pleasure of peeling pearl onions lets your guests know that you pulled out all the stops.

Next, Guerra's best food memory… [pagebreak]

Best food memory: 

About two years ago, I bought some Medjool dates, and opened the box in my car to sample one. Cloves, licorice, chocolate fudge, vanilla, roses…the taste flooded my senses, like huffing a Victorian candy shop. I was so overwhelmed with the intensity of the flavor that I had to sit and reflect on the experience in the parking lot of the grocery store for about 5 minutes. I refrained from eating another one for a couple of days so as not to diminish that moment.

Ideal breakfast, lunch and dinner: 

Anything made by and shared with my sons. They are especially talented at making pancakes,  and they always remember I like real maple syrup, salted butter, crisp bacon, and freshly squeezed grapefruit juice from the trees at the ranch.

Favorite Latin cocktail: 

Margarita on the rocks, Herradura Azul, no salt, olives.

Favorite kitchen gadget: 

Oh, here we go. I am in LOVE with my Zyliss mandolin, although it almost sent me to the hospital twice. SO sharp! Now that I have learned how to use it correctly, I think I will start carrying one in my purse, it is that awesome. I have my go-to items like my molcajete, Spanish clay bean pot, ceramic non-stick pans for eggs, garlic press, citrus press, slow juicer, Peugeot pepper grinder, bread knives, coffee and spice grinders…things I use daily (seriously) and occasional weapons such as dehydrators, pie collars, sausage stuffers, canning tongs, tamale steamers, copper vats, ollas de barro…I am a kitchen ware freak! Maybe that’s why I opened a kitchen store!

Perfect song to cook to: 

Music hypnotizes me, and I get lost in it, so usually I cook in silence so my food turns out edible. Having said that, I enjoy listening to Christina Pluhar when my husband is cooking.

Most adventurous food you eat: 

Living on a cattle ranch, I have eaten most things cow-related: brains, testicles, tripe. Hey, at least I know it’s fresh.

Favorite fusion: 

I live on the border of Mexico, where sushi is a huge trend. Lots of great sushi rolls made with fresh chile, delish!

Tip for at-home cooks: Shopping is the key to good meals. If you don’t think you are a good cook, be an expert on where to get the best ingredients.