At the Table with Ana Sofia Peláez and Ellen Silverman

In their new cookbook, The Cuban Table: A Celebration of Food, Flavors, and History, Cuban-American food writer Ana Sofia Peláez and distinguished photographer Ellen Silverman share delectable recipes, fond memories, and stunning images of their most beloved Cuban foods.

The book is so impressive that we decided to feature four of its recipes – desserts, specifically – in the December/January double issue of Latina Magazine.

In this exclusive interview the longtime friends, collaborators and Cuban food lovers share their favorite food stories, cooking inspirations, and secrets to preparing and hosting a perfect dinner. 

Is there a dish you crave from your abuela?

ASP: My paternal grandparents loved to cook together so I couldn’t choose between them. I loved my abuela’s natilla but the one dish I wish I could have again is my abuelo’s rabo encendido.

What’s your favorite food memory?

ASP: My junior year of college, we spent the break for Holy Week driving through Andalusia then up and down the southern coast of Portugal. We only stopped to eat, sleep, or swim, so we were always beach hungry. It was all fried fish and cold beer and I’ve never eaten so well.

What is the most adventurous food you’ve eaten?

ES: I will try anything at least once. However, the one dish I had to give up on was the tête de veau I had in Paris. It looked too much like what it was. Fortunately my husband was happy to trade his steak frites.

ASP: My father used to make frituras de sesos – fritters made with cow or pig brains – for us when I was a little girl. I loved them then but don't know that I could be so cavalier about it now. The idea really gets to me. 

Do you have a favorite Latin restaurant in the U.S.? 

ASP: Maricel Presilla’s Zafra in Hoboken is really incomparable.  She covers so much territory in Latin America and then presents it all so beautifully. 

ES: I am addicted to the pescado a las brasas tacos, tortilla chicken soup, [and] elotes callejeros at La Esquina Taqueria in NYC. Whether I am hungry or not, I cannot pass by without stopping for one or the other!

How about a favorite Latin restaurant in the world?

ES: On my last two trips to Cuba I had to pass through Atemisa on my way to Viñales. My trip wouldn’t be complete without stopping at a small farm called Las Masas which serves the most exquisite fried pork chunks, yucca chips and generous servings of freshly made flan. For me, this is the most satisfying of meals combining all of the flavors I crave.

In your opinion, what is the world’s hottest food destination right now?

ASP: It’s impossible to have a bad meal in Mexico City – whether it’s a high-end restaurant in Polanco or food stall in the Mercado San Juan. There’s a complexity to even the most casual, everyday dishes that is hard to find anywhere else.

Favorite fusion?

ASP: French-Mexican or Frenchican. It doesn’t seem likely at first but, given they’re both incredible food countries with a shared history, it works in surprising ways. At Jolie Cantina, one of my favorite neighborhood spots in Brooklyn, it all makes sense.

Favorite vegetable?

ES: Consistently since childhood, when my mother would prepare a roast chicken with roasted sweet potatoes, roasted or mashed sweet potatoes have been my favorite vegetable.

Favorite Latin cocktail?

ASP: A Presidente – white rum, dry French vermouth, pure grenadine syrup, and orange rind – stirred, strained, and served as cold as possible.

Favorite kitchen gadget? 

ES: The gadget I find most useful in the kitchen is a Japanese mandolin. Perfect for quickly making the right size slices of yucca or plantains for frying. But careful with your fingers!

Is there a secret to making a dish pop? A particular ingredient, perhaps?

ES: My favorite ingredient to make a savory dish pop is some grated orange or lemon zest added while cooking and a sprinkle of freshly chopped flat leaf parsley just before serving.

ASP:

ES: When it comes to dessert I like to add a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper to anything chocolate. I find the addition of just enough pepper to a rich, fruity dark chocolate recipe, is an exciting surprise for your palate.

How do you host the perfect dinner party?

ES: The secret to a perfect dinner party, besides a well composed and complimentary menu, is inviting a group of guests who want to share and engage with one another. I always separate couples and keep the number of guests to a maximum of eight so we can all converse easily with one another.

Any tips for at-home cooks?

ASP: Buy whole spices like allspice, cardamom, and cumin and grind as you go in small batches, using either a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle, while you're prepping other ingredients. They're easier to store, keep fresh longer, and make a stronger impact.

ES: Being organized is my secret to preparing a successful meal. Before you begin to cook: read [your] recipes through at least twice… Measure out all of your ingredients and organize them on your counter in the order that you need them. And, while I am cooking I am often listening to Cuban music, which makes me an even happier cook!

So what’s the perfect Cuban song – or any type of song – to cook to?

ES: Benny Moré – Bonito Sabroso from the album Cubano!

ASP: Anything from Israel “Cachao” Lopez. It’s the soundtrack in my kitchen and keeps me smiling on even the most stressful cooking days.

What’s your “guilty pleasure” food?

ES: After cleaning the kitchen at night I sit down by myself with a piece of dark chocolate – at least 70%, preferably studded with hazelnuts or candied orange peel.

ASP: The unchanging, unrepentant Cuban flan. It’s my favorite to make and so smoothly rich that only a few spoonfuls are enough. Not that I like to share.