The Science of Cocktails

For years now, chefs have been delighting diners with their scientific culinary creations. Innovators like Ferran Adria have become famous for their kitchen experiments that result in show-stopping dishes.

At Barmini, celebrity chef José Andrés’ very own “cocktail lab” located in Washington D.C., the staff is always experimenting with cutting-edge techniques under the guidance of Coronado, the group’s lead cocktail innovator and head mixologist. Smoked spirits, sugar spun drinks and cocktails garnished with creations from a Heidolph rotary evaporator are just a few of the elements used to craft some of the 110 menu offerings.

“This is what I love to do," Coronado said. "This is my pleasure. I want to turn cocktails into an art. Everything I do, eat, drink, smell, I try to apply to my craft. If I go to a restaurant, I have to come out with three great ideas for cocktails.”

Born in the Dominican Republic, Coronado moved to the United States with the hopes of putting an engineering degree to good use. Instead, he found his calling in the food and beverage world and enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America. He became a certified sommelier, champagne and spirits expert. At Barmini, Coronado is in charge of developing a bar program that changes the way we think about cocktails. 

“As head of R&D for ThinkFoodGroup, I am always thinking of how to make something different, make it better," Coronado said. "I take inspiration from my everyday surrounds. Life is R&D.”

Next, how Coronado develops those signature drinks… [pagebreak]

First up? Garnishes inspired by the science of surface tension. The surface tension experiment is something that came to ThinkFoodGroup from a group of scientists at MIT. “What we did was create and develop 3D molds that are propelled by surface tension," Coronado said. "It’s an edible garnish in the form of a boat that moves across the drink’s surface.” Juan uses regular gelatin flavored with St. Germaine elderflower liqueur to create the boat. A bit of elderberry cordial adds color and flavor. A high-proof alcohol, like Bacardi 151, is added to propel the boat to move.

Coronado, who considers himself a naturally curious person, has created his very own mini-lab at Barmini, one that guests can be a part of. With less than a dozen bar stools, drinking here is an intimate experience. That Heidolph machine is in full view. He uses it to create the Veruca Salt – a roasted peanut cocktail with pineapple syrup he was inspired to create after finishing off a bag of airline snacks during a flight. The contraption sits next to a cotton candy machine, dry ice maker and jars upon jars of utensils lining the slick white countertops. It looks more like the studio an artist student might share with his chemistry major roommate than a drinking den. Coronado is right at home here.

“I was never a nerd or a chemistry geek," Coronado said. "When I a kid, I was into making avocado and mustard sandwiches. I always thought, ‘hey, why not!’ I wanted to find different combinations that could work together. I like trial and error. It leads you to discover great things.”

His curiosity, some sticky fingers and a bit of trial and error is what led to the invention of Barmini’s Cotton Candy Old Fashioned, one of the venue’s most popular cocktails. “I had cotton candy in my hand," said Coronado. "I was eating it and it was melting on my fingers. I had the drink in another hand. Then I thought ‘bring them together.’”

It’s no surprise Coronado’s scientific cocktails taste as good as they look, he's no stranger to a cocktail shaker. With more than 16 years in the food and wine industry, he has established himself as an award-winning mixologist and entrepreneur. He started his career as a Sommelier for the world-renowned Bubble Lounge NY/SF. He followed that up with roles as a champagne educator for the New York Times and tequila expert for the New York Post. Then he owned and operated Sortie, one of New York City’s most popular and innovative cocktail lounges, and became a collaborating partner with houses like LVMH at their Hennessy House of Mixing Academy. He’s won an array of Rum Cocktail Awards in 2005, 2006 and 2012, along with the Classic Martini Contest from the Astor Center in 2008.

Next, a look at the inspiration behind some creative cocktails… [pagebreak]

But despite all his expertise, not all the ideas work. At least not right away. “Sometimes those crazy ideas don’t have an application and we have to it on them," Coronado said. "Sometimes for a year or two. Then one day they come together with another idea. “ 

Lucky for us, today was just that day.

“A while ago, I did this cloud of vermicelli noodles," Coronado said. "I fried them and caramelized them. They were like sugar. I was thinking, ‘what can I do with these?’ I never came up with anything. Today I found the answer.”

Coronado explains that he was working on a Tiki. “It has cognac, rum, soy milk, chocolate bitters. There is a little bit of cinnamon and clove and some Averna." Since he is serving it in a traditional carved Tiki glass, he wanted to give it an extra element. “I wanted to give the drink an afro. Then it came to me. The noodles!”

The soon-to-be-named cocktail will make its debut on Barmini’s summer menu, along with a few other gems Coronado has been working on. But what if you can't get to the bar and want to try the science of cocktails at home? “We’re working on that, too,” Coronado said. “Jose, the team and I are working on a cocktail book. You don’t have to be a scientist to do this. You really just need the passion and patience.” In the meantime, “a cotton candy machine is like 30 bucks at Target.”

In the meantime, you can mix up one of Coronado's creations at home with this recipe. 

Tres Caminos

• 1 1/2 ounces Corzo Blanco Tequila
• 1/2 ounce Averna
• 1/2 ounce Napoleon Mandarin liqueur
• 1 ounce freshly squeezed lime
• 1/2 ounce agave syrup

Get the full recipe.