Posole at 8000 Feet

If you're an adventure-seeker looking for your next conquest, you need look no further than Guatemala. Innumerable volcanoes beg trekkers to summit their peaks and take in the activity dwelling inside their rims. Nightly trips up to the summit of Pacaya, a long-dormant volcano that began erupting again in 1967, are popular, and this hike, which features up-close-and-personal encounters with flowing, ruby red lava, is an experience that defies the imagination.

The same, however, cannot be said for the dinner that was served at the end of the day.  As an avid outdoor enthusiast, I am well aware of the challenges any tour outfit faces in providing a hearty meal after a grueling day on a mountain — elevation, camp stoves, inclement weather, and the task of cooking for a crowd of diverse, and often fickle, strangers. But one taste of the lukewarm take-out curry being served, and I knew could come up with something better. So, after descending the mountain, I tasked myself with finding a simple, easy-to-prepare meal that would leave both guide, trekkers and budget happy.

I could foresee several challenges in accomplishing my goal. I had to take into account that the chef, er guide, may not have cooking experience. Therefore, the dish had to be uncomplicated, and the meal would need to be a quick, one-pot recipe that could be cooked on a camp stove no bigger than my fist. All food supplies would have to be trekked in, so my choices would have to consist of light and easily packaged ingredients for transport. Pre-cooking was necessary, but I didn’t want taste to be sacrificed. I wanted the meal to be delicious and nutritious—a reward for a hard day’s trek with restorative power for the body.

Guidelines understood; I envisioned a hearty stew served over rice, and what immediately came to mind was a spicy posole with hints of lime and cilantro, and a rich, chili-infused broth. By keeping the broth vegetarian and only adding proteins in the finishing stage (chicken for meat-eaters, baked tofu for vegetarians), the meal fit my parameters. Simple to make and nourishing, it would cater to all.

I could imagine what my next trip to Pacaya would be like, sitting down to a piping hot sopera of thick, redolent posole after an already phenomenal day.  With our bellies full and muscles aching, the group, guide and all, would sit back and pass a box of Oreos around as we watched the lava snake down the mountain before ducking into our sleeping bags.

Red Chile Chicken (or Tofu) Posole

Adapted from The Vasquez Family Cookbook, by Natalia Vasquez.

Serves 6:

For the base (to be done ahead of time):

1 large onion, chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup red chili pulp*

½ teaspoon oregano

2 cans (15 oz each) or 4 cups vegetable broth

1 cup water

5 to 6 cups white hominy, drained (2 30 oz cans)

¼ cup cilantro, washed and minced

Salt to taste

In a heavy pot, sauté onions in oil with a sprinkle of salt over moderately high heat until tender and golden, about 4 minutes. Add chili pulp and oregano and let “toast” for another 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add broth, water, hominy and half the cilantro to the pot and bring to a boil. Simmer for 20 minutes; remove from heat, salt to taste and let cool. Ladle into heavy Tupperware or Zip Lock freezer bags and freeze.

At the campsite:

Frozen stew base (recipe above)

1 lb cooked chicken, shredded OR 2 x 6 ounce packages smoked or baked tofu.

3 cups cooked brown or white rice

¼ cup chopped green onions

¼ cup thinly sliced radishes

¼ cup cilantro, washed and minced

Lime wedges

Prior to leaving base camp, remove stew from the freezer (it will stay cold all day and will also keep other ingredients cool), and pack away with remaining ingredients. When cooking time comes, transfer base to pot and bring to a boil. Divide chicken/tofu and rice into bowls, ladle hot broth over chicken/tofu/rice, and garnish with green onions, cilantro, and lime wedges. Best enjoyed with a Pacaya view. Enjoy!

Red Chili Pulp (arbol or guajillo, or pasilla work best)

1. Combine twenty pods, stems removed, in pot with water and bring to a boil.

2. Turn off heat, add 2 garlic cloves and let soak about 20 minutes.

3. Transfer chilies to blender and add 2 whole garlic cloves and a pinch of oregano.

4. Blend, adding chili water, until you have a medium thick paste, like mayonnaise.

5. Refrigerate.