Modern Mexican Cuisine with Chef Thierry Amezcua

As a Mexico City native and the executive chef of Papatzul in SoHo, Thierry Amezcua has been busy redefining the Mexican dining experience since he first stepped into a kitchen. He sat down to chat with us about his culinary career and what makes Papatzul different than other Mexican restaurants, starting with his childhood in Coyoacan. 

“It’s a very special place where one can have a taste of the Old Mexico as well as a bohemian experience,” says Amezcua who spent countless hours eating and hanging out with his family near the Plaza and market where they lived. “From carnitas to tacos to hand made sopes, to esquites, it was a street food paradise!” 

Along the tree lined cobblestone streets of his hometome, Amezcua found century colonial houses, mansions, and churches. He immersed himself in his hometown’s history and art, learning about the Spanish explorer Cortez and imagining the life of Frida Kahlo. And though Amezcua will always have fond memories of Mexico, he’s just as proud of his new home.

“I am actually a U.S. citizen and very much a proud New Yorker!,” Amezcua said. “However, I feel that embracing my culture has been a very important part of my experience. Back in Mexico City I had the opportunity to work in two renowned Spanish restaurants and ever since then I wanted to have my own.”

Now, Amezcua is living the dream, opening up Papatzul with his his wife and fellow chef, Debby, in 2006. The name, Papatzul, which is actually the name of a traditional Yucatan dish, also has a special meaning.

“I loved the idea right away, but what was more appealing to us was the meaning, ‘Food for the lords,’ and the sound of it,” Amezcua said.

Surpassing many expectations and external forces, most notably a weak economy, Papatzul is now one of the staples of traditional Mexican cuisine in Manhattan, and continues to receive a great response from the public.

“Opening Papatzul has been an amazing way to maintain that bridge with my native culture,” said Amezcua. “Not only has it satisfied me culturally, but also humanly because I meet a lot of Mexicans who currently reside in New York that are thankful for that little piece of home.”

Next, what the future holds for Amezcua…

Amezcua is extremely appreciative of each and every chef he has had the opportunity to learn from, and credits all of them in his culinary success.

“The chefs that I have had the honor to apprentice with, they have been my biggest influence,” he says, thanking Boston chefs Monceff Meddeb from L’Espalier, Gordon Hammersley, Jody Adams, and Lydia Shire. Amezcua also credits his now colleagues in New York, Peter Hoffman and Charles Kiely.

“I love to learn from other cooks and I am always open to different techniques, but of course, my mother has to be my main inspiration,” said Amezcua of his biggest fan. He makes sure to return home to Mexico City at least once a year.

“Each time I go home I take the opportunity to go to up and coming restaurants or just go back to the basics,” Amezcua said. “There are always exciting things going on and lately the food scene in Mexico has a lot to offer.” You can find a taste of Amezcua’s trips on the menu. If you want to taste the flavors of Amezcua’s Mexico, he recommends the mole.

Papatzul currently has two mole dishes on the menu; one is Mole de Olla with short sibs, which features a mole that is light and without nuts. The other is the original almond mole, which is served with Duck Enchiladas.

“Mastering moles is a real art, a real challenge, and thus the appeal of such a great dish,” said Amezcua, who loves to not only learn new techniques, but teach others as well, the true mark of a great chef.

“I see myself as a generous chef,” Amezcua said. “I value very much all the traditional and classic recipes, because I think it is very important to know and understand them, where everything began.”

And when Amezcua isn’t in the kitchen, you can find him planning for the future.

“Our plan for the future is to expand Papatzul to different areas and hopefully other cities,” Amezcua said. “I would also love to go back to working with Mediterranean flavors!” 

Amezcua also hopes he can serve as a mentor to young chefs wishing to follow in his footsteps.

“My advice and I think perhaps the best advice anyone can give to young chefs is to apprentice as much as they can,” Amezcua said. “After you get your hands dirty, at some point the journey should take you to school where you can hone your culinary skills. Remember this is a labor of love career, and it will be hard, no doubt. But if you truly love food and what it does, it is very rewarding.”