Christina Gomez-Pina knows a thing or two about Cuban food. In fact, she's on her way to knowing 629 things as she cooks her way through the classic Cuban cookbook Cocina al Minuto by Nitza Villapol, who hosted a Cuban TV show under that same name for 45 years. Gomez-Pina got the book as a gift and it sat on her shelf for nine lonely years. Then after reading the best selling Julie and Julia in which a home cook cooks her way through Julia Child's classic Mastering the Art of French Cooking and realizing that the Cuban cooking traditions she loved so much were slipping away from her, Gomez-Pina took the book off the shelf and started cooking. She's making her way through the book's 649 recipes and documenting it all on her blog La Cocina de Christina, one dinner at a time. Here Gomez-Pina talks about about why she started this project, what she's learned, and her biggest cooking disasters.
Did you cook before this project?
I did cook before this project, but my cooking sessions usually consisted of many prep bowls, utensils, and fanfare. I'd set up like if I were getting ready for a cooking show and by the time I was done, we'd have an entire dishwasher full – and that was before my husband and I had the kids. On any given cooking session, I'd probably be making some magazine recipe that I had never made before, and never would make again.
Tell us a little bit about your project. Why did you start this?
I never really had that one special dish. My grandmothers each had a dish (one, croquetas, the other, carne frita), my best friend's mom had merenguitos, my great-grandmother had an amazing pimento cheese spread. The ladies (and some pretty sharp men) had their dishes. Once we had the kids, I realized I really wanted to have something my kids and friends would ask me to make for them.
Why did you choose Cocina al Minuto?
When I read Julie and Julia, I was inspired by the idea of teaching myself to cook by using a cookbook. For me, there was no question – Cocina al Minuto chose me. My mother in law gave me this book at my bridal shower. My grandmother had brought her copy when she left Cuba. Every Cubanita (or girl about to marry a Cubanito) gets this cookbook as a gift.
Next, Gomez-Pina's best dish and cooking disaster… [pagebreak]
How often do you cook?
I have a full time job, husband, kids, a beagle, and volunteer duties. I cook as often as I can when I get home at a decent time, which usually means before 7 p.m. Some weeks I make dinner once a week, others we hit my goal of four times a week. La Cocina de Christina is usually closed on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, unless we're entertaining. Then, it's the centerpiece of the gathering. I love Sunday dinners.
How has this project changed your approach to cooking?
My approach to cooking is much simpler now. When I'm not tackling a new recipe, I'm making simple standards – picadillo with killer rice, carne con papas, arroz con salchichas, mojo chicken with a side of spinach, shredded carrots, and lime juice. The kids love pasta with butter, so we have that at least once a week for them. Bottom line, though, for my approach – I've learned how to multitask (baths, homework, cooking) for the daily dinners. And when a new recipe is underway, I photograph, post, and document the details. That, to me, is a peaceful experience. I love being in that zone.
What has been your most successful recipe?
I've got a few greatest hits now that are requested. Fritas, Killer Rice and Picadillo, Fricase de Pollo, Carne con Papas, Pastel de Medianoche (yes, as in a medianoche sandwich pie), and mermeladas. My favorite favorite recipe so far has been for the Pierna de Puerco Asado a la Criolla. It has people loitering during the entire cooking process. They don't leave. And they sop up any salsita that's available with Cuban bread pieces they try to sneak past me.
What has been the most challenging?
I burnt maduros to the point that they were charcoalesque. The jambalaya liquid ratio was off in another recipe so I burnt that one pretty bad, also. Finding sesos (pig brains) was pretty challenging in Miami, believe it or not. I actually found them in North Carolina and made the five recipes that called for them. The challenging part was the taste testing and the test of my friendship with the folks that were with me. They tried it and are still my friends. Now that's saying a lot.
Next, what keeps Gomez-Pina going… [pagebreak]
What have you learned from this experience?
This project has taught me that all the food clichés about family, love, and traditions are true. Food gathers everyone around a common topic. As someone that wants to keep the hard work of my family's prior generations alive, I know I am accomplishing this through this project. My kids have a piece of their great great grandmother any time I make her pimento cheese spread (if they'd try it). My husband has a piece of his Tia Moki each time I make Macarrones con Carne, which actually makes our house smell like Moki's house. My heart carries a piece of my grandmothers each time I make something they used to love making. That is what keeps me going and that is what will help carry me to complete all the recipes. One day.
What 5 cooking tips do you have for a novice cook?
1. Keep it simple. Pick recipes you'd like to make over and over for yourself or your family. Master one recipe and move on to mastering others, little by little. Learning to establish your cooking style takes time.
2. Look through the recipe (ingredients and directions) BEFORE starting the process. I can't tell you how many times I've gotten to a point in a recipe where I have to stop and let something marinate overnight. All the while, I have people coming over in just an hour to eat that dinner.
3. Identify a favorite recipe someone in your family makes really well. Shadow them when they cook that recipe. Take notes and try to measure what they put in it. Then, try to make it with them alongside you.
4. Invest in really good knives and pots/pans. You'll be using these items over and over and having a good set really makes the process easier and lets you focus.
5. Don't put water in hot oil. Never. Never ever.
Next, watch Gomez Pina in action! [pagebreak]
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