Keiko Yabuuchi: Puerto Rico’s First Lady of Sushi

Visit Puerto Rico and chances are a sushi dinner is not on your bucket list of things to do. Well, time to change the itinerary. For the past 15 years, the Ritz Carlton Isla Verde has been serving their guests the unmistakable flavors of Puerto Rico in an interesting way. And it’s all thanks to Chef Keiko Yabuuchi, a pioneer of Japanese food in Puerto Rico.

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Yabuuchi, who was was born in Tokushima, Japan, didn’t set out to be a chef. She first started cooking for her family at 11 years old after the unexpected death of her father. She had to start taking over all the household chores for her mother, cooking included. “Unfortunate at the time,” she reflects, “ but such golden training for my life.”

That ultimately turned into a lifelong career. She describes her training as completely “on-the-job.” She worked hard to learn everything she possibly could from some of the great masters of sushi, all while holding down a job as general manager for the restaurants she worked at.

Then while spending time in New York, Yabuuchi met a “wonderful Puerto Rican man” and together they moved to the island in 1975. Her first job was at the legendary Hotel San Juan. Then, she helped to open Blossom Restaurant at the El Conquistador Hotel, Yamata Restaurant in Hotel El San Juan, and Mandalay Restaurant in the Condado Plaza Hotel.” 

She is happy to call Puerto Rico home, now.

“I love it here, I love the people, I love our natural beauty, and after so many years, even the staff here at the Ritz say I’m more Puerto Rican than Japanese! 39 years here and I still love it so much,” said Yabuuchi.

She’s been at the Ritz Carlton for 15 years and considers it her “greatest honor” to be there. Every day brings something new and exciting for her. “Forgive me for gushing a little bit, but I was so honored to serve customers such as Jennifer Lopez, Ricky Martin, Jerry Rivera, so many Miss Universes – I’ve loved serving them all, and thankfully, they all loved my sushi,” said Yabuuchi. “I also had the honor of catering the sushi for Don Omar’s wedding! What a great experience.” 

There is a reason that celebs, tourists, and locals flock to the Ritz for Yabuuchi’s sushi. Her master in Sushi, chef Ishikawa, was completely against the fusion of sushi and criollo. But she finds the blending of cuisines a wonderful culinary experience for chef and guests alike. It’s something unexpected that when tasted, everyone loves.

“I have found it invaluable to use some of the most beloved flavors in Puerto Rico in order to create traditional sushi rolls,” Yabuuchi said. “This has served me to make the bridge between those who would never, ever consider eating sushi, to becoming clients for life. I have my assistant chef Carlos to thank for this.”

Yabuuchi’s focus is on blending Japanese tradition spiced with unmistakable Puerto Rican flavor, so that both cuisines are well respected and represented. And while she is excited with the results, getting them is not always easy.

“Reluctantly, I use churrasco, pechuga en salsa de tamarindo, cilantro, amarillos, mango, papaya, and of course ajo and fresh ginger in all my marinades,” Yabuuchi said. “I say reluctantly, because I am such a fundamentalist when it comes to the art of sushi. That’s why I allow my great assistant, Carlos, to invent anything his heart desires. Of course, it has to meet my ultimate taste test, but his instincts are perfect and all of our customers just love his Puerto Rican inventions with our traditional sushi.”

Not all flavor combinations work, but when they do, it is unmistakable. “A great hit has been using bacalaito mix in place of traditional tempura on sushi rolls, our clients say it’s very delicious!” said Yabuuchi. “My biggest surprise is that the local people love Japanese Tempura – absolutely anything tempura! From vegetables, to entire rolls deep fried in tempura! It’s a wonderful surprise and always makes me smile.”

The sushi program at the Ritz Carlton has been so successful, Yabuuchi is  now replicating it at the new Ritz Carlton at Dorado Beach. “My little sushi bar is expanding! I’m very thrilled and excited about the future!”

So, what has been the most challenging for Yabuuchi? “This is easy – Uni (sea urchin), because people here just don’t like it!”