Jean-Georges’ Love of Latin Food

Ask a handful of chefs to name their culinary inspirations, and, more than likely, Jean-Georges Vongerichten will be the name mentioned most. He’s one of the world’s most famous chefs and boasts a restaurant portfolio of over 35 venues worldwide.

A native of Alsace, France, Vongerichten is best known for his modern-day interpretation of Asian food. His signature cuisine abandons the traditional use of meat stocks and creams and instead features the intense flavors and textures from vegetable juices, fruit essences, light broths, and herbal vinaigrettes. Jean-Georges’ culinary vision has redefined industry standards and revolutionized the flavors of the East. Now, it looks like he may be doing the same for Latin cuisine.

The long-awaited debut of his New York City Latin-food restaurant had area’s food world abuzz for months. Situated next door to his James Beard award winning restaurant ABC Kitchen, the press hounded him for details about ABC Cocina, a restaurant he said would shine the spotlight on Latin cuisine and the locavore style dining he experienced on his travels.

“When I first visited Mexico, I was blown away by the use of chilies, lime, cilantro, tropical fruits, sesame coconut, rice.  These were some my favorite ingredients from southeast Asia, which I have been cooking with for years, but it was a completely different expression.”

In 2004, Jean-Georges, who cites Patricia Quintana, Douglas Rodriguez, and Alex Stupak as some of his favorite Latin chefs, translated what he tasted in Mexico into Market, his first dining outpost south of the border. In understated elegance, Market features Euro-Asian cuisine with Mexican inspirations. Dishes like crispy huachinango with eggplant compote and marinated peppers and seared shrimp served with gingered butternut squash puree and toasted pepitas bring together Jean-Georges’ French roots and Asian influence with Mexico’s rich culinary tradition and ingredients. 

In San Juan, Puerto Rico, Vongerichten went on to fuse Latin and Afro-Caribbean materials and textures with a contemporary interpretation for the menu at Fern, a restaurant he opened at the St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort in late 2010. So, it was only a matter of time before he brought his version and love of Latin food to his home base of New York City.

The Latin follow up to ABC Kitchen will mirror the ethos of the original – produce and ingredients sourced from local artisans will be at the heart of the menu.

Vongerichten is relying on Chef Dan Kluger and chef de cuisine Ian Coogan to bring his vision of a global palate, featuring small plate Spanish and Latin-inspired fare, to life using the  “amazing flavors” he experienced in Spain, Peru, Portugal and Chile as a foundation.  Guests can expect local seafood grilled in a wood-burning oven alongside fresh and explosive dishes with house-made corn tortillas, slowly stewed heritage meats and rice.

“These flavors”, said Jean-Georges, “have greatly enhanced my understanding of balance, acidity, sweetness and freshness. To cook this range of flavors knowing ABC Cocina is focused on responsibly sourcing ingredients and supporting craftsmen and artisans, both locally and from around the world, is truly exciting for me.”

Equally as exciting, especially for the diner, will be the ambience. Jean-Georges aims to deliver an authentic experience at ABC Cocina. “It feels like a fiesta,” he told NYMAG.com. “There will be music from Brazil, Spain, and Mexico. We want people to feel transported to somewhere else for two hours.”

What he was holding back, however, was when people could experience it. In true Jean-Georges fashion, he kept the press waiting with an open date, explaining things were not quite right. To officially announce when the ovens were on and roaring to go, he took to twitter with no time to spare.

“We are opening at 530pm tonight! Call 212.677.2233 for reservations!”

Within minutes, the phone lines were tied up and ABC Cocina was booked for weeks in advance.  His advice? Keep trying and, when you get there, have the tacos.  We’re going to listen.  He is, after all, one of the world’s most famous chefs.