Culinary Trailblazer: Carme Ruscalleda

When you think of the culinary scene in Spain, chances are El Bulli and Ferran Adria are the first things that come to mind. It’s true that the mad scientist of Spain has garnered much attention over the years. But, it’s another chef that is stealing the thunder these days. Chef Carme Ruscalleda’s Sant Pau restaurant is considered one of the finest dining experiences in Spain. Over the years, it has acquired four Michelin stars and an outpost in Tokyo, which has its own pair of stars. For much of the world, it took the closing of El Bulli to realize there was a whole restaurant scene in Spain that insiders were keeping to themselves and Chef Ruscalleda and her passion for Catalan tradition is at the center of it.

“I think women and men, in the culinary industry, we play the same game, because we pay the same taxes, the same price for products, for human resources and we put the same dedication and strength,” Ruscalleda said. “Therefore, it’s in the hands of ourselves decide to join in. I’ve never felt vetoed by my colleagues for being a woman; quite the opposite, I keep a very pleasant and respectful with them.”

Inspired by nature, news, discoveries and the people and memories of her life, Ruscalleda is a trailblazer in the culinary field. She is the most awarded female chef in the world with an amazing seven Michelin stars for her restaurants in Spain and Japan.  

But if you ask her, she won’t take all the credit.  “I think that is the recognition of the work of a team that works with honesty and enthusiasm to provide the public the culinary philosophy of our brand, whether in Barcelona, or in ​​Tokyo at San Pol de Mar,” she said.  

The philosophy she speaks of starts in a familiar place: family. “As a child, I learned to cook and to respect the products in my house,” Ruscalleda explains. “We were a rural and merchant family. When I was older, I realized that there was a whole world with very different and interesting culinary cultures.”  

Next, Ruscalleda makes cooking a family affair…

She took the values and behavior she learned as a child and conveyed them into her growing business. One of her most successful cookbooks, Cocinar para ser feliz (Cooking to be Happy) is dedicated to Ramon and Nùria, her parents, whom she credits with inspiring her culinary creativity and her love of Catalan cuisine.  Her first job was working in their food store, which she later took over. She was taught to respect others and to “claim respect for yourself.” Laziness is not an option in her world. It’s a life lesson she is now passing on to her own son, Raul Balam, who works side-by-side with Ruscalleda in Moments, the award-winning restaurant in the prestigious Mandarin Oriental hotel in Barcelona.

“My son and I worked at the restaurant in Sant Pol de Mar,” Ruscalleda said. “To me, see him growing at Moment restaurant is a sense of personal and professional pride.”

Together, the mother-and-son team is breaking new culinary ground in Barcelona. “The Moments menu is inspired and composed of products like Maresme Sant Pol. Our commitment is to provide to the city of Barcelona the gastronomic philosophy of St. Paul, where the garden and the sea are a mainstay.”  

They offer gastronomy from a very healthy experience, while staying true to Ruscalleda’s love of Catalan cuisine. At lunch, guests can enjoy an “anti – aging menu” that mother and son developed together in collaboration with Dr. Sanchez from the famous Clínica Planas. “In my house the seasons invade our table,” she said. “As a child, we lived from wine grapes, milk cows and the products of the garden – the vegetables and legumes. So it’s so important for me to offer customers the products and seasonal fresh flavor of each ingredient that comprises a plate.”

Despite being the most awarded female chef in the world, Ruscalleda insists she has still not reached the top in terms of her career. 

“Rather than being on top, I feel that I am growing professionally,” she explains. “To progress I think that you have always to feel learning. I have not felt  the feeling that ‘I arrived here’ yet. I am aware that my expiration date is on the edge, but I didn’t think about that, because I work with the same enthusiasm I have had since the beginning.”

Get a taste of the what Ruscalleda is serving up with her recipe for a gluten free chestnut cake. 

Gluten Free Chestnut Cake 

Get the full recipe.