Culinary Politics in the Capitol

When most people think of Washington, D.C. the first words that usually come to mind are politics and presidents, not food and wine. However, as renowned Chef José Andrés explains, “it is so much more than that.”  D.C. has a celebrated food culture, with native chefs like Michel Richard, Robert Wiedemaier, Johnny Monis, and Ann Cashion leading the charge, and West Coast stars like Michael Mina, Wolfgang Puck, and Eric Ziebold carving out their own piece of Washington D.C.’s culinary history. But better, Latin cuisine is thriving in D.C. 

Though the focus on Latin ingredients in the nation’s capital took center stage when Andrés, one of Time Magazine’s most influential people of the year, helmed the kitchen at Jaleo back in 1993, the Latin food space in D.C. continues to grow in both traditional and modern ways. One of the most celebrated chefs of the century, the Spanish food icon attributes the success of his restaurants to “the people of Washington, who are open to learning and sharing about culture and about food.”  The recipient of the 2011 James Beard Foundation Outstanding Chef Award, as well as many other industry honors, Andrés’ restaurants are local institutions and must-visit dining landmarks in the area.  When Andrés first arrived to Washington, tapas weren’t the familiar menu item that they are today.  Twenty years later, the success of Jaleo, the critically acclaimed Spanish tapas restaurant, Café Atlántico, where he crafted a Nuevo Latino menu, and Oyamel Cocina Mexicana, where he put a modern twist on authentic Mexican dishes, proves that the Latin food scene is consistently growing.  “As a chef, I want to share that story of each restaurant and of each culture.” Clearly, Andres is accomplishing those goals.

Following in Andrés’ footsteps, D.C. boasts countless contemporary dining establishments by chefs interested in Latin flavors.  Mike Isabella, a contestant on Bravo’s Top Chef, as well as owner of Graffiato, recently delved into Latin space.  The New Jersey native’s highly anticipated Bandolero features his take on modern Mexican cuisine, and opened its doors in the Georgetown neighborhood earlier this year to much critical acclaim.  Isabella, who was previously Executive Chef at Andres’ Zaytinya, has quite an impressive background when it comes to his experience with Latin cuisine.  “I used to cook Latin food with some great chefs in Philadelphia, including Douglas Rodriguez and Jose Garces at El Vez and Alma de Cuba.  It is food that I love to eat and I knew it would be a great concept for Georgetown,” explains Isabella.

In the Washington fusion space, Richard Sandoval’s Masa-14 and Zengo feature Latin-Asian small plates, while the chef serves up his native comfort Mexican food (and a deep well of fine tequila) at El Centro D.F.  “D.C. serves a chic and diverse group from around the globe, and from all walks of life,” explains Sandoval, who expects the Latin food space to grow. “The surge of acclaimed Latin restaurants and enthusiasm for new, unexplored dishes from countries such as Peru, Colombia and beyond,” is one of the reasons that keeps Sandoval firmly rooted in the nation’s Capitol.

Though there is plenty new about the city, some Latin restaurants have long standing relationships with food friendly Washingtonians. Taberna del Alabardero has been highlighting Spanish cuisine for over twenty years and their annual Paella Festival is a summer tradition.  Held in July, the event features a tasting of various paellas—2012’s Paella Festival menu offered 10 different types—as well as cooking demonstrations by the restaurant’s RAMMY (Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington) nominated Chef Javier Romero.  For tastes that skew Peruvian El Chalán has been satisfying cravings for ceviche and lomo saltado since 1981.  Another long time favorite is Lauriol Plaza, which showcases Tex-Mex and Latin American cuisine and frozen margaritas in a variety of flavors. 

More recent additions to D.C.’s Latin food scene include Puerto Rico’s celebrated Giovanna Huyke at Mio.  Every week, Mio celebrates with their signature Lechón Asado Ajili Mojili or roasted pig.  At Logan Circle’s Estadio, Executive Chef Haidar Karoum focuses on modern Spanish cuisine with dishes like the Sherry Glazed Black Cod and Crispy Veal Sweetbreads as well as traditional Spanish staples like cheeses and charcuterie.  Keeping it light, you can pair his eats with cool “slushitos”—adult slushees made with bourbon or rum.  Chef Jeff Tunks’ Latin inspired Ceiba in Metro Center has received many accolades by local foodies since the restaurant’s opening in 2003.  The restaurant’s menu is inspired by Tunks’ his travels through the Yucatan, Brazil, Perú and México.

Not in the mood to sit down for a meal? Don’t fret; food trucks abound! Pepe Food Truck (by Andrés), The Borinquen Lunch Box, Sabor’a Street, District Taco, Mojo Truck, DC Empanadas, and Takorean rove the streets in for those craving takeaway.

What does the future hold for the Latin food space? Well, Andrés is convinced that it will only continue to expand, “Latin American food is so unique, so vast. Every country has its own unique flavors, the possibilities are limitless, and there is always more to discover.”

Armed with this kind of culinary intel, we challenge you to think of politics and presidents the next time you’re talking D.C. Clearly, it’s all about food and wine.