Coffee Tourism in Puerto Rico

Think the best thing about Puerto Rico is drinking rum from a fancy glass at the beach? Think again. Another beverage seems to be drawing the buzz: coffee.  So much so that the Travel Channel is launching an original series about the coffee craze, “Dangerous Grounds” premiering November 5^th at 10:00 PM. During each episode, coffee magnate and adventurer, Todd Carmichael, will traverse the globe in search of the perfect hidden bean. It is no wonder—nearly one billion people drinking coffee every day, ranking it right behind oil as the most aggressively traded commodity in the world.  Whether you are one to crave a pocillo (espresso), cortadito (espresso topped with steamed milk), or a café con leche (half espresso and half scalded milk) as they are called in Puerto Rico, the real experience lies in seeing the whole coffee process, from bean to barista.  

There are a number of ways coffee-loving travelers can check out the scene in Puerto Rico. Those craving the hands-on experience should head to the center region of the country to the towns of Adjuntas, Jayuya, Las Marias, Lares, Maricao, Ponce and San Sebastián, to name a few, where local haciendas (coffee plantations) offer visitors unique and captivating tours through the process of making coffee.  Those looking for less off-road adventure can attend one of the country’s annual coffee or food festivals such as La Fiesta del Acabe del Café (787-838-2290) held in Maricao in mid-February, Festival del Café (787-448-6465) in Yauco in late-February or the Saborea Food Festival in San Juan in late-April. 

If you’re planning to spend time at the haciendas, harvest season, which runs from September through December, is the best time to go. The season guarantees a complete look at the coffee cultivation-process, from learning how the beans are grown on the fields all the way through to the roasting process.  Since most haciendas are located in the cooler, higher elevations of the island’s interior, a trip to a hacienda also offers tourists a different kind of cultural experience than those found along the coasts. 

Hacienda Visits

Most haciendas welcome groups, couples and families with children at least nine years old.  Lightweight and light-colored cotton clothes (to help from overheating), long pants, and layers are recommended.  Bring along an umbrella, raincoat, sun block and a hat, and wear proper shoes for walking on farmland, uneven roads and possibly wet earth.  Plan for a full day visit if you are coming inland from San Juan; it takes roughly two hours to reach each one of the following TLK-approved haciendas:

For a taste of history, the Hacienda Buena Vista in the lush mountains above Ponce stands out. A restored mid-19^th century mill and plantation that shows the evolution of the coffee industry in the region, this 87-acre property, which once produced 10,000 pounds of coffee per year for shipment to Europe, is now owned and operated by the Puerto Rico Conservation Trust as a living museum.  Reservations are required for two-hour tours offered from Wednesday through Sunday at various times. ($10.00 per person) 

For the eco-minded, the Hacienda Monte Alto in Adjuntas offers a free tour that takes visitors out into the fields, and then into the production and roasting facilities. Visits end in their tasting rooms for fresh brewed samples.  Hacienda Monte Alto is committed to environmental consciousness with regards to land use, soil erosion, coffee processing, water and energy use, as well as embracing fair-trade practices.

Wanna stay the night? An overnight coffee experience takes place at the Hacienda Pomarrosa, where two cottages available for rental start at $125 per night, including breakfast and a coffee tour.  Day tours last about two hours for $15 per person and are by appointment only. 

Festivals

For music, dancing and an authentic coffee culture experience, head to La Fiesta del Acabe del Café in the little town of Maricao, which is nestled between two mountain ranges in the southwest region of the island.  Held annually in mid-February, the festival is a local celebration, dating back to the 18^th century, and honors the hacienda owners for their hard work completing a successful harvest. 

The most famous and historic of Puerto Rico’s coffee producing towns is the city of Yauco, also known as El Pueblo del Café or “the City of Coffee.” Each year, in late-February, the Festival del Café fills the air with the delicious aroma of percolating coffee beans. Festivalgoers are able to taste some of the area’s finest blends.   

Make no mistake; you don’t have to leave San Juan to experience the island’s coffee culture.  Walk into any one of the city’s bakeries to experience high-quality, local coffee. You can even embark on your own “coffee-crawl” in Old San Juan where you will find an abundance of quality cafés and cultural ambiance. Puerto Rico’s Café Cola’o, Café Cuatro Sombras, Caficultura, and Finca Cialitos are a few that stand out.  If you happen to be in San Juan in late-April make sure to buy a ticket to Saborea Puerto Rico, the Caribbean’s largest, annual food and beverage event.  They have a specialty coffee tent, “Sweets & Brews,” which offers an undoubtedly delectable opportunity to indulge in local treats and homegrown java.