Chef Chat: Life In the Kitchen with Ray Garcia

Like most exceptional chefs, Ray Garcia, the man behind Downtown LA hotspot Broken Spanish, is disciplined and respectful. In life and in the kitchen, he wastes no ingredient, no word, no energy. Even Garcia’s stride is efficient. Chin down, eyes fixed on his destination, he passes from his restaurant’s dining room and bar to its sala, a private space used for special events and extended seating, with one hand neatly tucked behind his back and the other pulled taut to his side.

Those who’ve worked in restaurants will recognize Garcia’s efficiency. Where the untrained eye perceives chaos, the chef perceives a symphony, and conducts every instrument, from dishwasher to barman to GM, with a quiet decisiveness. Lauded by food critics – he was recently named Esquire’s “Chef of the Year 2015” – and beloved by Los Angeles diners who appreciate his farm-to-table ethos, Garcia is the penultimate conductor, and his two LA outposts, Broken Spanish and its more casual little sister, B.S. Taqueria, are changing the way Angelenos view traditional Mexican food.

Garcia imports heirloom masa from Oaxaca to press tortillas fresh daily; his chile relleno, stuffed with poblano peppers, potato, kale, lemon, and sauce soubise, is baked instead of fried; and his green bean entrada bursts with flavor and texture thanks to poached egg, spicy sofrito, and finely ground chapulines (grasshoppers) that cut the delicate green beans with a bit of crunch.

The coup de grâce is a duck cooked à la minute, smothered in black mole, and topped with roasted persimmons, sesame seeds, and micro green onion sprouts for a hint of bitterness. It’s an otherwise semi-sweet dish whose presentation – it looks like it could feed a family of four – makes it the menu’s most popular item.

If that doesn’t sell you on Garcia and his culinary talents, consider this: he is beloved by those who work with and for him.

“The staff is like a family,” his night manager says, adding that Garcia is also a devoted Dad and husband with a “hilarious wife.”

We sat down for a chat with Garcia and asked him about food, music, gangs (yes, gangs) and the X Files. Here’s what he had to say. [pagebreak]

How do you feel about the surge in Downtown LA’s popularity?

As a native Angeleno, it’s great to see this area being reactivated with so many new and exciting projects. 

You’ve been a top finisher at Grand Cochon in recent years and won the contest in 2014. What’s your secret to cooking great pork?

The secret is to try to bring the most out of each part of the animal. Each cut is delicious in its own way.    

You were planning to be a lawyer before you became a chef. What sparked your interest in the law? What’s your favorite TV crime show?

Prior to cooking I wanted to be an FBI Agent. I felt like it would be an exciting job that would challenge my mind on a daily basis. Now I get that challenge and adrenaline rush from busy services in my restaurants. I don’t really watch TV anymore, but I was a huge X Files fan. 

Someone told me – or maybe I read it somewhere – that your mom once said of your chef career, “At least he’s not in a gang.” Your mom sounds pretty funny. What’s she like and how did she influence your life’s choices?

My parents are both very funny and quite supportive of me. They said that they would be proud of me no matter what I chose to do with my life, as long as it was legal. Their constant support has had a huge impact on my life.

Where do you eat in LA when you go out?

There are so many great places popping up all around the city. As a chef, it’s exciting to see what an interesting dining destination Los Angeles has become. One of my current favorite spots is Cassia in Santa Monica.  [pagebreak]

Where did you go on your last vacation and what did you do and eat there?

My last vacation was to Spain. I went crazy on tapas in San Sebastian. Everything was so delicious!  

What’s the last book you read?

The Toilet Paper Entrepreneur. 

Tell us the best thing about being Mexican.

The appreciation of food, culture, and family.

What’s your worst fear? Spiders, failure, flying?

Not accomplishing everything that I set out to do.

What’s on your refrigerator at home? 

Family photos and a magnetic alphabet for my two year old son. 

What’s your favorite song to cook to?

I don’t really listen to music. I have a very loud life and look forward to quiet any time that I can get it.  

Social media – love it or hate it?

Necessary evil.