Chef Alex Stupak on SOBEWFF & PUSH Project

Yesterday, we shared Part One of our interview with NYC’s own Alex Stupak, chef and owner of Empellón Taqueria and Empellón Cocina, and covered early culinary influences, what he loves about Mexico, and how Americans need to look at how they define Mexican cuisine. Today, we conclude our interview with the young chef, as he heads down to Miami for his first appearance at Food Network’s illustrious South Beach Food & Wine Festival.

You’re headed to SOBE for FWW? First time, yes? Tell us a bit about what you’re participating in…and what you’re cooking!

I’ve never been to the festival, but I’ve also never been to South Beach before so I’m ready to check it all out. We’re participating in Swine and Wine (on Sunday night) and we’re making a non-dessert dessert inspired by the fresh fruit served street-style throughout Mexico. You know, drizzled with lime and topped with chili salt? But we’re adding an alcoholic element based on the ritual of how mezcal is appreciated in Oaxaca – sipped and served with a big plate of chili-salted oranges. Combining both of those ideas, we’re doing a Mandarin Orange Parfait with Mandarin mousse. We’re spiking it with mezcal, and adding chili salt on top.

Any chefs are you looking forward to connecting with at SOBEWFF?  

Everyone, really. When we’re in our restaurants, we’re always working. So what I cherish most is that there are a handful of people – even from NY – that you don’t get to see and catch up with as much as you’d like. One person is Alex Guarnaschelli. She asked me to be on a Bullfrog and Baum trade panel with her and I’m really looking forward to it.

Your PUSH project got NY food folks truly excited. We especially liked that you christened the program with Enrique Olvera in your kitchen! Who’s up next for PUSH?

Last year we did four PUSH Projects. This year, we’re only doing two for a variety of reasons, but the most important is that you really have to have a good rapport with whomever it is that you’re collaborating with. You need to know how to work together, you need to also be friends; you also need to have been out, gotten drunk together… So, while I don’t want to announce who the visiting chefs are just yet, when they are announced, it will make sense.

Next up, the secret to his great guacamole, and the latest on his new restaurant…

Speaking of Olvera, we know he’s headed for NYC. What advice would you give him (and other Mexican chefs) as he embarks on his first NYC restaurant project?

In terms of New York City real estate and real estate lawyers, I would have plenty of advice to give! But outside of that, I wouldn’t say much. Chefs are like snowflakes; all have different sensibilities, and two cities don’t react to the same cuisine in the same ways. So, it’s hard to give advice. I think he’s going to shake things up and I’m really excited to see that happen. Cook some real deal, bad-ass Mexican food. I can’t wait.

We absolutely love your sea urchin guacamole. Any other special ingredients you like to use to make a classic recipe like guacamole truly pop?

A huge question, hard to answer. Basically, you take what’s highly familiar, like guacamole, and simply add one new ingredient that works with avocados, and it will become new. Like urchin. Another approach to recreating classics is to simply make a revised version of the dish with the same flavors and see how it turns out. For example, I love barbacoa, especially Oaxacan barbacoa, heavily flavored with the anise of the avocado leaf. At Cocina, we serve a lamb tartare, deeply infused with the flavors of those barbacoa oils. If a dish is normally served cooked, reinvent it as a raw dish. It’s more about just trying out new combinations with ingredients that work together.

The blogs have gone nuts! We hear you have a new spot opening? Can you tell us a bit about it?

The focus will be on masa, definitely. We’re looking to make it a place to produce masa. The rest has yet to develop.

We will absolutely stay tuned…

Alex Stupak will be participating in the Swine and Wine event at South Beach Wine and Food Festival. For details, click here.