Caviar Guide: The Skinny on Serving the Sexy Stuff

We would be hard pressed to name a food item that evokes more of a sense of luxury and romance than caviar. It’s the ultimate “couple” food: a thirty-gram tin is perfect for two to share on its own or before dinner. That said, it’s also a special treat for yourself or for a night with your best friend. It seems especially appropriate for dinner parties, Valentine’s Day, and special occasions wherein luxury foods add a sense of elegance.

But many of us don’t know what to look for when shopping for caviar, nor are we sure how to best present it to maximum effect. Richard Corbo, Executive Chef at New York City’s Tribeca Grill, serves caviar on its own and atop several dishes.

Here is his professional advice on how to buy caviar and how to serve it, and he also offers us his favorite wine pairing. Spoiler alert: it’s Champagne!

Shopping For Caviar

RC: I think the most important thing is to start with a reputable source. You’re usually going to be buying caviar in a closed tin, and you’re not going to be able to inspect it. Like anything else, you want to get your product from a vendor who sells a lot of it so you can be sure it’s moving quickly. There’s nothing wrong with buying it online if you know the source. If you can try it, you are looking for firm caviar, not something mushy, and it should have a bit of “snap” to it. In terms of scent, it should have a light sea aroma, nothing “fishier” than that. It should also be chilled or on ice up to the moment of purchase, and then be chilled in transport and at home. [pagebreak]

How Much to Serve:

RC: Caviar is a very indulgent product. It’s almost like eating Kobe beef. It doesn’t have the fat content of course, but it can make you feel satiated after only just a few bites. I would recommend one thirty-gram tin—that’s just a fraction over an ounce—for two people to share.

Serving Ideas:

RC: My wife and I occasionally enjoy a tin of caviar. I keep a loaf of brioche in the freezer, and I am ready at all times to make little toast points. We always use a bit of crème fraiche; I love that crème fraiche adds a bit of creamy balance to the saltiness of caviar. I think onions and shallots are a little strong, but if people like a touch of onion flavor they can use chives, but very little. As a chef, I love grated egg with caviar. We do that here at Tribeca Grill—we hard boil eggs and then grate them very gently on a box grater and serve the yolk and white as well, with crème fraiche, chives, and brioche points. When I worked at Gary Danko in San Francisco we served buckwheat blini, but they take a bit of work to make. However, if you don’t keep brioche on hand, I think any white bread will do—challah bread or even light white bread will do. Don’t toast it too much—you just want to firm it up a bit, or fry it in a small amount of butter.

Use Caviar as a Topping:

RC: Caviar is a great addition to a dish. Recently for a VIP wine dinner at Tribeca Grill we served a lump crab meat salad with soft lettuces, green goddess dressing and caviar. I used about 6 grams to top each portion of crab meat which was gently dressed with lemon oil, chives, and a dash of espelette pepper; note that with caviar I don’t use acid in the vinaigrette. Typically for complete dishes that have a lot of other flavors going on, we use hackleback or paddlefish. Both are delicious options for this use. As little as two grams would complete an elegant steak tartar nicely, whereas I could easily empty half of a tin on a pasta dish to accent it, especially buckwheat pappardelle with cream and shallots.

Favorite Sources of Caviar:

RC: I have served Calvisius caviar in the past; I have to say that Calvisius does an excellent job. I would tend towards the white sturgeon. They also do a great Oscietra. I remember serving that at the Regency, we had a very discerning clientele, and they demanded the Calvisius Oscietra. There are also some other great sources, including Petrossian and Wild Edibles. [pagebreak]

Number One Wine Pairing:

RC: We love Taittinger Champagne. I’m not sure that there is one in particular, but my wife and I are huge fans of Taittinger. She will pull out a different one for us to enjoy each time. There is definitely a richness and elegance, almost a butteriness, to Taittinger, that really lends it to a caviar pairing. I remember sharing a bottle and feeling that some of the salinity and toasty brioche flavors from the caviar and toast were in the wine as well, and we were getting confused as to what was coming from where. That is really my idea of the perfect pairing. You can’t figure out where your food ends and your wine begins.

Evolution of the Palate:

RC: I didn’t really like caviar very much when I was growing up, but as a chef I served it on New Year’s Eve and for special occasions. Over time I developed an appreciation for it, and now I really enjoy it. As I’ve said, for special occasions or to make any night special my wife and I love to break out a small tin and share a bottle of Champagne with a little caviar.