Catching up with Chef Mary Sue Milliken

For as long as she could remember, Mary Sue Milliken was always drawn to the intense flavors of the culinary world. Now, the successful co-owner and chef of three Border Grill restaurants, Milliken shares her love affair with food, and the importance it plays in her every day life.

“I’ve always had a passion for working with my hands and making things, whether it was arts and crafts or painting,” says Milliken. When she was in fourth grade, Milliken discovered an intricate recipe for a Danish in one of her mother’s magazines, and decided to test her skills in the kitchen. “I got up at 4 am to make this crazy difficult recipe with all of these layers of coffee cake and butter,” says Milliken. “It was so intriguing to me because I didn’t know that working with food was an option as a career path. That’s when the light bulb went off,” she continues. Milliken discovered food as a profession at the age of 16 and knew right away that she wanted to attend culinary school.

“I met a professional chef who was a friend of my sister and he blew me away with his passion and theatrics for food and cooking,” she says. Milliken finished high school in three years and enrolled in Washburne Trade School in Chicago. She credits her mother as a major influence in her cooking career. “My mom was a fantastic cook herself and very adventurous in the kitchen,” says Milliken. “I grew up in Michigan, which was a very meat and potatoes kind of life, but my mom always found an interesting dish to serve us,” she says of her biggest supporter.

Milliken and her partner Susan Feniger are recognized for changing Los Angeles’ culinary landscape.  “I hope we last long enough,” replies Milliken when asked about the honor. “We’re just very passionate about food and being a part of the community, cooking and learning, and always looking for the next big thing,” she continues. 

While Milliken and Feniger are hoping to open up a fourth Border Grill, their current restaurants have met with much success. The original (now 23 years old) is located in Santa Monica while the second is in downtown LA. They opened a third Border Grill in the Mandalay Bay hotel in Las Vegas. “I’m definitely proud of where we are now,” she says.

Milliken loves to cook with a variety of ingredients and spices, but it is the bold and intense flavors of Latin America that draws her to Latin cuisine. “I love the potent flavors and that Latin cuisine is very vegetable centered,” says Milliken. A popular ingredient in Latin cooking, the egg, is Milliken’s favorite to cook with because it can elevate any dish. “Eggs are the perfect food and you can do so much with them,” she says. “I raise chickens at home so my eggs are always farm fresh. Fried, poached, or deviled, eggs make any meal more elegant and lovely,” she continues.

Milliken is also a lover of Latin culture. An avid traveler, she has spent quite some time in Latin America, venturing to Peru, Chile, Spain, Portugal, and Mexico to name a few.  “The culture is so passionate and vibrant and it’s reflective in the cuisine,” says Milliken. “We take a family vacation once a year and I travel a lot for work, so it’s really important that I immerse myself as much as possible in the culture that I am a part of,” she says.  

The future looks bright for Milliken. While she plans to keep cooking, Milliken also loves to teach and recently took part in a videoconference with a cooking school in Malta. “It was an amazing experience just to be able to share what I know and love with others looking to get into the industry,” says Milliken. “I’ve spent so many years cooking and looking at food and the way it behaves, and I’m passionate about sharing those ideas with other people.”

Milliken is also one of the chefs who represent the Diplomatic Culinary Partnership program established under Hillary Clinton. “It’s a really rewarding experience and I’m very passionate about being a woman in the kitchen, so this was a huge honor to be a part of,” she says.

Milliken’s passion and enthusiasm for her craft will forever remain a part of her every day life mantra. “I’m extremely grateful for where I am today,” she says. “My future is going to keep evolving as a chef.”