Buenos Aires Hit List: Parrillas

It’s all about the sizzle really: a sound that delivers a sucker-punch to the hungry belly, the anthem of man’s oldest and most common cuisine. Barbecue, braai, barby, asado, barbecoa, no matter what you call it, everybody loves it. There is something simple, primal, and beautiful about meat cooking on open flames. Deep in our genes it seems that there remains a fascination with the power of fire.

In few places in the world is the barbecue as revered and celebrated as in Argentina, and Buenos Aires is rife with masters of the art. They all swear that there is no trick to it; they seem almost puzzled by the question. All you need is a good, trustworthy supplier and a slow fire – simple. Maybe when you cook hundreds of kilograms of the stuff every week, it’s that easy to unthinkingly judge by eye, touch, and instinct. For the rest of us, the sometimes-barbecuers, there is no better city in the world to give up the apron with grace and put yourself in the hands of someone who knows better.

As always, TLK has got your guide to the best of the city, these are the parrillas that never fail to deliver.

Best in Class

These are the iconic, top of the range parrillas, traditional and impeccable on all fronts. The service is excellent, the wine selection impressive, the menu has all the favorites but with some finer touches and the meat is simply perfect.

Don Julio (Guatemala 4691, Palermo. +54 11 4832-6058) Order a skirt steak (entraña) and take the time to pick something delicious from the wine list lovingly curated by owner Pablo Rivero. Repeat.

La Cabrera The guys at La Cabrera win extra points for the Little bowls of finger snacks and dips that arrive at the table the minute you sit down.

Next up, the best in neighborhood grills and more…

Parrilla de Barrio (Neighborhood Grill):

They are sprinkled generously in every neighborhood in the city, whether a sooty hole-in-the-wall with beer-branded plastic tables and waxy serviettes or white table-clothed and spread out onto the sidewalk, these are the restaurants that do the leg-work of keeping up the porteños astonishing meat diet. Giant, well-priced portions, simple and exactly what you want from a local parrilla.

Lo de Paka This is, as they say, a super-clásico, the great value choice for Saturday family lunches, nights out with mates, or just about any time you want to eat great meat. If ever you are going to try the sweetbreads (mollejas), do it here.

Parrilla Peña (Rodríguez Peña 682, Tribunales. +54 11 4371-5643) The best place to eat in Recoleta that still feels like small town Argentina. First rate, bow tied waiters and neat, functional décor; this place is a warm hug for meat lovers. They are the kings of that most argentine of cuts, the tira de asado (short ribs).

La Esquina (On the corner of Miñones and Sucre, Belgrano. +54 11 4788-0699) You’ll find yourself cueing with neighborhood kids, hungry couples, and post- football practice hordes, everyone here for the best sandwich de vacío (flank steak) around. They get bonus points for the friendliest as adores (grill masters) in town.

La Ventanita (Olazábal 1686, Belgrano. +54 11 4781-1572) Cut from the same mold as Lo de Paka, just in a nicer, airier space, with must-grab tables outside in the sunshine; and arguably the best meat empanada in town.

Club Eros (Uriarte 1609, Palermo. +54 11 4832-1313) Part noisy indoor football club, part restaurant, it’s a bit of a dive, but they also happen to have a devastatingly good bife de chorizo. Settle into your plastic chair because you’re about to fall in love.

In San Telmo:

La Brigada It’s expensive and it’s touristy, but it’s also a shrine to the argentine parrilla experience, complete with football shirts and slightly surly mustachioed waiters. And they really do cut their steak with a spoon.

El Desnivel (Defensa 855, San Telmo. +54 11 4300-9081) This is the parrilla de barrio, San Telmo style – more bustle, higher tourist count, but the best option around for traditional vibe, price, and quality. Try the bife with pancetta and roasted red-pepper.

Next, a mouthwatering look inside a parilla… 

Something Different:

Parrilla Tour No need to decide on just one parrilla, join up with this social experience. Hosts David and Santiago will take you deep into the secret belly of this carnivorous city; for a day you will eat, drink and live like a porteño – meat, Malbec, and helado. 

Adentro Dinner Club (Oro y Costa Rica, Palermo)

The real argentine asado happens at home, it takes half a day, there are friends and soon-to-be friends and an excess of all things, such that your future grandchildren may feel pleasantly sated, and maybe a little drunk. For those who don’t live here, you have Gabriel and Kelly’s home to go to. Their menu includes all the classics and then strays into gourmet territory, the hosts couldn’t be more charming, the experience, perfect.

Floreria Atlantico

A recent opening for meat hungry trendsters this cocktail lounge by innovator Julián Díaz and cocktail legend Toto Giovannoni hits all the spots. Hidden in a basement below a flower shop and vinyl store, hip bartenders serve up fresh, innovative cocktails in jam jars and a heaving parrilla down at the other end keeps the hunger well at bay.