Austin F&W Spotlight: Jeff Martinez

Chef Jeff Martinez wrote his first recipe at the young age of nine. What was it, you ask? A list of ingredients that he was sure would taste great on a hot dog! It was many years later, however, this his culinary journey began. After moving out of his parent’s house and looking for way to pay his rent, Martinez became a dishwasher at a local restaurant.

Moving onto prep work and sauté stations, Martinez took a short kitchen break, and headed north to Alaska to work in a salmon fishing lodge. But a personal chef gig in Maine reignited his culinary passion and brought him back to San Antonio where he worked at Biga, (now Biga on the Banks) with Bruce Alden and ultimately realized that he had found his calling.

After a couple of years, Martinez headed to Austin, in hopes of landing a job at Jeffery’s, one of Austin’s legendary restaurants. No job available, it was at Jeffrey’s that Martinez met Carlos Rivero, the manager of Jeffery’s who would become his good friend and business partner. As the duo began discussing ideas for a new restaurant, the concept for the belove El Chile was born. With little experience preparing Tex-Mex, Martinez relied on his experience (and his growing palate) to guide him in the creation of what would be El Chile’s most prized dish Pescado Entortillado, a tortilla crusted fish.

After five years at El Chile, in hopes of expanding his culinary education, Martinez left to work alongside Diana Kennedy at Fonda San Miguel, soaking in her techniques and teachings. Summers were spent at culinary courses in the Yucatan and Peru. Returning to El Chile with more knowledge of Mexican cuisine, Martinez reinvented the menu, introducing fresh weekly dishes, with deference to the favorites that had helped build the restaurant’s success. 

Participating this weekend in the Austin Food and Wine Fest, TLK caught up with Austin’s own, Jeff Martinez.

What inspired you to pursue cooking professionally? 

My inspiration to cook professionally is not as romantic as some chef stories. After moving out of my parent’s house, I needed a job. The start of my kitchen experience was at the bottom as a dishwasher. Perhaps the most influential part of working in the kitchen — even as a dishwasher — is that I knew I felt comfortable in the kitchen environment. I felt like I had found my calling and aspired to work my way up. And I guess I always have loved to cook. My mother has a recipe for hot dogs that I wrote when I was nine years old. I can’t say I was influenced by my mother since she wasn’t much of a cook. But like most Hispanic families there is one person that does cook which was my maternal grandmother. 

Can you share a little of your time spent working/learning alongside Diana Kennedy?   

It was an honor to work with Diana Kennedy. I’d never worked with someone who had studied the classical Mexican food ways. My knowledge of Mexican food was influenced by my own family, San Antonio, and my experience in many kitchens. My style of cooking Mexican food was my own interpretation without giving regard to the old ways of Mexican cooking methods. Now, when I cook Mexican food, I combine traditional Mexican techniques with my own personal touch.

How do you approach the ever changing taste trends and adapt this in your kitchen?

Mexican cuisine is regional, just like Italian and French cuisine, and a lot of what is presented to America is a very small glimpse of the complex cuisine of Mexico. I would rather introduce people to a timeless classic like Oaxacan Mole that has been developed over centuries.  Perhaps some may have never had Oaxacan Mole? Or guacamole for instance, I would not want to turn this into a foam. I would want people to experience the creamy texture of the avocado rather than turn it into a different texture.

What is your philosophy on food and dining?

Food and dining shouldn’t be a chore; it should make you happy whether you are cooking or eating.

What advice would you give to a young chef just getting started in the culinary world?

Ignore what you see on TV. This isn’t a glamorous career, you’re not going to be Anthony Bordain. You’re not going to have a TV show.  You’re going to work and work hard. It’s going to be hot and the hours are going to be long but if you’re positive, patient, creative, and most importantly have a passion for food you can succeed.

What are looking forward or meeting at Food and Wine this year?

I’m looking forward to eating, drinking and meeting chefs in the industry. I’m just happy to be a part of it.

What essential ingredients should one stock in their pantry to successfully cook at home?

Beer, butter, and meat. Beer is a great marinade and takes the edge off. Everything tastes better with butter, and meat is versatile no matter what you like to do. You can grill it, braise it, bbq it, or pan fry it.

What does success mean for you?  Where do you see yourself in five years?

 I’d like to be working half as hard and vacationing twice as long. Seriously though, I’m always looking at expanding my knowledge and expertise. I love Asian flavors and would like to expand on working with them more. You never know what the future holds.

After a long day of working with food, what do you crave when you get home?

Charred bitters salad from 24Diner.

Last meal on this earth would be? 

I spent last Sunday eating Wild Texas boar and Gulf Oysters with my two best friends. I can’t imagine it could get any better than that. 

Get a taste of what Martinez is dishing up with this recipe. 

Chipotle Short Ribs 

• 6 bone-in short ribs (about 5 3/4 pounds)
• 4 teaspooons kosher salt
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large Spanish onion, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 ribs celery, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 carrots, peeled, cut in 1/2 lengthwise, then cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed
• 1 1/2 cups chipotle pepper purée, from caned chipotles
• 2 to 3 cups lone star beer
• 2 cups water 

Get the full recipe.