Having arrived on the New York culinary scene nearly four years ago from Madrid, Chef Jesus Núñez has been described as the “Spanish enfant terrible,” by New York Magazine, which only skims the surface of this talented chef's backstory. Once the Spanish culinary ambassador to Korea, Núñez is known for his playful interpretations of traditional Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine, bringing his illustrious background as a former graffiti artist on Madrid's street to every plate. It was only when his father pushed this self-proclaimed "hippie" who once sported full dredlocks to "get a real job", that his calling as a chef was awakened. After the success of two critically acclaimed restaurants in Madrid (Polenta and Flou), he noticed subtle changes in Madrid's economic viability that worried him. When his personal life also began to undergo change, he made the decision to jump the pond for some time in NYC. Sure, he was in pursuit of a girl, but also eyed a serious stateside culinary legacy. Now, the affable chef with warm eyes, plenty of passion and punk-attitude, has a new goal: to arouse New York diners' tastebuds while pushing the envelope on flavor combinations and presentation. Trust us; it's working.
Though Núñez began his takeover of the city with his creative Upper West Side restaurant Gastroarte, he's now nestled at Barraca in the West Village, in a space that evokes a Spanish playhouse. An authentic tapas, paella and sangria spot that opened (and served the neighborhood!) during Hurricane Sandy, Barraca has good Spanish backing — restaurateur Hector Sanz’ Quimeria Restaurant Group, which includes Rayuela and Macondo. Though the food at Barraca is more comfort than unconventional, he continues to showcase incredible Spanish flavors that focus on traditional recipes sourced with local and imported Spanish ingredients. Hearty dishes like six varieties of paella, a veal shank and blue cheese stew, croquetas, and piquillo peppers stuffed with oxtail round out the menu. But don't miss the Huevos Rotos, one of the restaurant's most addictive dishes, and a whole new take on eggs and potatoes for which Núñez provided the recipe (below).
Make no mistake; Núñez isn't looking to slow down. He will also serve as Executive Chef of the soon-to-open Melibea, a contemporary Spanish eatery just around the corner from Barraca. We caught up with the busy Spaniard for some culinary talk.
Dish you crave from your abuela:
The dish I most crave from my abuela is the tortilla de patatas. Her tortillas are made from potatoes and onions grown in her garden, and from eggs laid by her own chickens. The result: pure flavor. My abuela taught me to cook with love and passion, and because she's from a very small village in Spain, she has the luxury of working with real, fresh ingredients – a value she instilled in me. At my abuela’s house, the milk she gave me as a child was freshly milked, tomatoes were straight from our garden, and the apples were just picked from the tree.
Secret ingredient to make a dish pop:
A high-quality Spanish extra virgin olive oil, and fleur de sel from Cabo de Gata in Almeria, Spain. These are the only ingredients you need to transform a dish from good to extraordinary.
Favorite Latin restaurant in the U.S.:
Without a doubt Rayuela in New York City.
Favorite city to eat:
Madrid, where both world-class restaurants and traditional tapas bars focus on serving seasonal and fresh ingredients that form the basis of the Mediterranean diet. Plus you can enjoy a great wine and a delicious bite to eat at a very reasonable price.
Secret to a perfect dinner party:
When you’re just with friends, I would say a lot of good wine, simple but delicious finger foods, and good music are a no-brainer. For a more formal dinner, I would recommend a good wine, jamon de bellota, a fresh seasonal salad, and a chocolate desert. For a romantic dinner, stick to candlelight and cava.
Biggest food indulgence:
I’m a cheese person. I love cheese prepared in every different way possible. There are so many types of cheese that each offers its own texture, flavor and possibility for combination with different ingredients. Torta de Casar, a goat’s milk cheese from Extremadura, is a delicia!
Favorite vegetable:
Eggplant is a vegetable with a lot of possibilities. A simple piece of fried eggplant with honey can be a succulent dish. A roasted eggplant puree with olive oil makes the perfect dip.
Best food memory:
My best childhood food memory is holding a piece of homemade chorizo in one hand and a piece of rustic homemade bread in the other, while sitting under a big tree in front of my grandparents’ home in the summer.
Ideal breakfast, lunch and dinner:
Breakfast: Two fried eggs, French fries, smoked bacon, jamon Iberico, toasted rustic bread and a big glass of orange juice.
Lunch: Porterhouse steak, roasted peppers and aioli.
Dinner: Thin-crust pizza topped with mushrooms, ham and Manchego cheese.
Favorite Latin cocktail:
I’m simple with cocktails; a well-prepared mojito with crisp, fresh mint is always refreshing.
Favorite kitchen gadget:
Thermomix. I miss this gadget a lot here in the USA since it's impossible to find.
Perfect song to cook to:
Any Bob Marley songs – they’re relaxing and inspirational for me.
Most adventurous food you eat:
Blue fin tuna heart sashimi directly from a freshly caught fish.
Favorite fusion:
Peruvian-Japanese fusion. The combination of these two amazing cuisines is simply incredible.
Tip for at-home cooks:
Less is more. Simple and good-quality products prepared with respect always lead to delicious meals and happy diners.
- 2 ounces pork belly, cubed
- 1 pound potatoes, sliced into matchsticks
- 1 green bell pepper, julienned
- 8 eggs
- 2 ounces Tetilla cheese