Culinary Smackdown: Fierro Hotel vs. Algodon Mansion

Never a city to fall behind on international trends, boutique hotels have boomed in Buenos Aires with over a hundred opening in recent years, particularly in the tourist hotspots San Telmo, Recoleta and Palermo. Now, some seven years into the boom, the trick is standing out from a crowd of impeccably stylish competitors. Two hotels, Fierro and Algodon Mansion are getting noticed by making serious waves on the local culinary scene. TLK put them head to head. Here's the breakdown.

LOCATION

Algodon is located in leafy Recoleta, where late nineteenth century Parisian architecture towers all around; an excellent location for easy access to most of Buenos Aires’ top galleries and great dining options.

Fierro is in Palermo Hollywood, across the railway line from its hipper brother Palermo Soho, with raucous nightlife and designer stores. Hollywood, however, has some of the most interesting restaurants in the area.

Result: Tie – but Fierro's Palermo tends to be livelier.

INSIDE AND OUT

The Algodon is a 1912 French style mansion magnificently restored and renovated over three years. The result is a tasteful elegance and understated wealth with sumptuous rooms: ebony floors, suede walls, pillowy king beds, and designer furniture. The bathrooms, my favorite, are decked out in French limestone and Italian marble with gorgeous steam showers.

The Fierro is powered by great shapes, lines, and a signature red and black palette. The décor is modern and sexy, but never sacrifices comfort for style. King sized beds fit easily into the spacious, well-lit rooms with warm wooden floors and a funky black textured wall-paper. All the classy little details are there – double-glazed windows, blackout blinds, rain showers, Egyptian cotton sheets, and a pillow menu.

Result: Not considering price, Algodon wins for sheer opulence, and the way that sound seems to function according to slightly different physics inside, making the world’s cares a little more removed.

THE PEOPLE

The staff at both hotels are warm and helpful, with great local knowledge. And their chefs, Hernán Griccini at Algodon and Hernán Gipponi at Fierro are completely down to earth and friendly, bursting with a passion for developing Argentine cuisine.

Result: Fierro inches ahead thanks to sommelier Martin Bruno who presides over Fierro’s inspired wine selection – curated by Andres Rosberg, president of the Argentine Sommelier Association – with charm and an encyclopedic wine knowledge.

THE FOOD

Among Argentina’s top young chefs, Hernán Griccini and Hernán Gipponi are at the reins at Chez Nous in Algodon and the eponymous HG at Fierro, respectively. Since opening, they have received consistent rave reviews for their ‘new Argentine cuisine’ and seasonal menus emphasizing fresh, high quality ingredients by local producers. In the kitchen, they show a restrained but excellently implemented use of molecular gastronomy.

Hernán Griccini plays a masterful hand with sophisticated and quietly delicious dishes that are a perfect blend with the surrounding mansion. The offerings from the wood-fire barbecue are perennial favorites and keep an eye out for purple empanadas, made from red maize pastry. Don't miss the catch of the day from Mar de Plata, seafood quinoasott served with vegetables and chicory; or the lamb cooked for 24 hours sous-vide then braised, served with a black bean ragout and a tuber puree.

Having worked at two double Michelin star establishments in Europe, the Guggenheim Restaurant and El Poblet with chef Quique Dacosta, Hernán Gipponi is truly coming into his own and showing off his skills and creativity in the kitchen. Don’t miss the seasonal nine course tasting menu and splurge for the wine pairing. Try the Roasted Kabutiá Pumpkin Soup with orange, crispy onion, fried bread and goat’s cheese (right); the Madryn prawns with oven baked garlic, tomatoes, almonds and basil; or the slow cooked eggs served on a bed of hummus with chicken broth and crispy bacon sprinkles.

Result: Both are unmissable if you are in Buenos Aires, but I have to sway towards Fierro thanks to the impressive wine pairings.

THE WINNER

Algodon Mansion is a playground for the jet set with a Vueve Cliquot branded bar in the waiting lounge and a Davidoff lounge next to the rooftop pool for that after dinner cognac, cigar, and schmoozing. A top notch wet bar, sauna shower, and suede walls, what more can one ask for?

Fierro, however, was created by owner Martin Rosberg on a premise so simple it’s almost visionary – great rooms, great food, and friendly people, all at a reasonable price. He has achieved his goal, and much more; for this author, Fierro edges away with the laurels.

NEXT UP

Keep an eye out for newcomer, The Hub in Recoleta and their partner restaurant, Tarquino by Dante Liporace, one of the country’s hottest and most experienced chefs, twice invited to El Bulli.