The closer it is to the holidays, the more panettone, more commonly spelled panetón in Spanish, appears in Peru. You find towers of it at the supermarket, being given away at gas stations, and baked by grandmothers as treats for their grandchildren.
The loaf of fluffy cupola-shaped sweet yeast bread, usually baked with bits of candied fruits and raisins, originated in Milan in the early twentieth century and was brought to South American countries by northern Italian immigrants. It has become so popular in the region, where it is sometimes called pan dulce, that many countries now export versions of the product to North America, prompting Italian officials to ask the World Trade Organization to designate an official origin for the holiday dessert.
Peru has a particularly strong association to panettone. Here, Antonio D'Onofrio, the son of immigrants who arrived from Caserta in 1911, began selling ice cream during the summers and eventually chocolates, developing a sweets brand that still in exists today (though now owned by Nestlé and exported throughout Latin America). In the 1960's, he began selling panettone, licensing a recipe from Gioacchino Alemagna, who created one of the best selling Italian brands when the cake became commercialized in 1950.
Now panettone is to a Peruvian Christmas as cookies are to an American one. Slices of it are served after Christmas dinner with a cup of hot chocolate or coffee, and eaten for the weeks before and after.
Today there are dozens of brands of panettone available in Peru, many of which can be found year round. Traditionally panettone is a tall, light cake with a domed top that is baked in a paper pan with gold decorations. Usually the dough is fermented for a few days to develop the flavor, which has notes of citrus and jasmine. In Huancayo, they are often prepared using a combination of wheat and potato flour and are loaded with raisins, candied fruit, and a bit of ginger. In other parts of the Andes, sweet potato or carrot may be used, as well as oats, quinoa, and amaranth. Some panettone even include aguaymanto, or coca leaf.
Whatever your preference, enjoy a slice this holiday season.