Chef Chat: Tom Gilliland On 40 Years of Mexican Food in Austin

Forty years ago, Tom Gilliland and Miguel Ravago started Fonda San Miguel, an interior-Mexican food restaurant in Austin that quickly rose to popularity. Before Fonda, “Mexican” food in Texas meant Tex-Mex. Gilliland and Ravago redefined it to mean authentic sauces bursting with flavor, slow-simmered meat, and flavors previously unknown outside of the Mexican state of Guanajuato — not to mention handcrafted metal lampshades, painted tiles and colorful artwork in the dining room.

Ten years ago, the pair published a Fonda San Miguel cookbook that won the IACP Cookbook Award and the Independent Publisher Awards; in November, they released an updated and reissued edition, Fonda San Miguel: Forty Years of Food and Art. We spoke with Gilliland about what’s new in the reissue, how Fonda has survived for so long among Austin’s swiftly changing food scene, and his favorite recipes. [pagebreak]

The Latin Kitchen: What’s new in the Fonda San Miguel cookbook reissue?

Tom Gilliland: There are 20-plus new recipes and many photos of new art collected since the “30 Years” book.

TLK: Why do you think Fonda has survived — and thrived — for so long when the Austin food scene has changed so much over the years?

TG: It’s due to the desire and intention to offer new menu items, unique art and décor/ambience to prevent becoming stagnant. Our many loyal patrons motivate us.

TLK: Has your approach to food in the restaurant changed at all? What about the ingredients — are Austinites more open to trying new flavors now than they used to be?

TG: No, it really hasn’t changed. We have always emphasized the best-quality ingredients. Austinites have always been open to trying new flavors. There are more options than ever before, which offers new exploration. [pagebreak]

TLK: What are your favorite recipes in the cookbook?

TG: I like the chile anchos rellenos, pozole estilo Jalisco, our new tequila and mescal cocktails, Endy’s polvorones and the huevos motulenos. 

TLK: Fonda San Miguel is also known for its art. How does art enhance the eating experience? Why was art a priority for the restaurant?

TG: Interesting and relevant art always enhances the dining experience. You know you’ve been someplace in addition to the experiences of Mexico on the plate.

TLK: When you’re away from Fonda, where is your favorite place in Austin to eat for a casual lunch? What about for a celebration dinner? For dessert?

For casual dining, I like Bartletts, Kome, Suzi’s Chinese Kitchen and Bun Belly. For a celebration, Jeffrey’s. For dessert, Chez Zee and Lauderette. 

Check out a bonus recipe from their cookbook for the classic Mexican cookie, polvorones!