Chicharrón: New San Juan Restaurant Makes Pork Rinds Sexy

Chef Robert Treviño, one of Puerto Rico’s biggest culinary stars, is in fact, not Puerto Rican. His restaurants, however, are decidedly so. The owner and executive chef at two of San Juan’s most beloved restaurants – romantic Budatai and the more traditional Casa Lola – he recently opened Chicharrón, a fun spot in San Juan’s booming La Placita.

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Chicharrón is unlike either of his other outposts. The food, the vibe, the layout – all are designed for fun. But the most notable difference between Chicharrón 3 and its sibling spots Budatai and Casa Lola, is its location. The latter are in a neighborhood, and one that is both upscale and heavily trafficked by tourists. Chicharrón, on the other hand, is in La Placita de Santurce, a small collection of narrow streets that are home to a local farmer’s market by day and what is arguably Puerto Rico’s wildest party by night. [pagebreak]

Chicharrón’s patio looks out over the bustling Placita where locals and tourists drink, mingle, and dance against a backdrop of live music, vendors selling their wares, and the occasional ventriloquist. Graffiti atop an adjacent warehouse wisely advises revelers not to drive drunk. It’s vaudeville meets street theater meets Mardi Gras. The biggest difference between New Orleans’ and La Placita’s version of the latter is that in La Placita, the party takes place every Friday and Saturday night. (Weekdays are busy, too, but a little less raucous.

In entering Chicharrón, you trade the pulsing chaos of La Placita for the grown-up playfulness of a cavernous, sexed-up café whose tables are tucked into intimate nooks and crannies that span multiple rooms. It feels a bit like stepping through a portal. [pagebreak]

A bar greets you immediately after crossing the threshold. A mojito, perhaps? Say yes; it’s an refreshing primer for the nibbles and bites to come. Among the best of said nibbles is Chicharrón’s namesake – fried pork rinds dipped in chocolate. Hot, crunchy, and a little bit messy, they’re a seductive combination of sweet and savory. Also not to be missed are crisp, fried shrimp and tart ceviche. Taken together, they make for perfect hot and cold starters.

The rest of the menu is composed of Puerto Rican classics with surprising touches – many of them reflective of Treviño’s Mexican heritage. Try as many as your stomach can handle, as each is better than the one before. When you’re done, step back out onto La Placita and do as the locals do: stroll to the next watering hole and grab a bite to eat. Though open to all guests, Chicharron has the feel of an in-crowd only spot – the one all your friends have been to and say you’re nobody if you   is like stepping into a in-crowd only spot that you and