Chef Talk: What Does HHM Mean to Me?

Hispanic Heritage Month (September 15 – October 15), celebrates the culture, histories, and contributions of Hispanic and Latino Americans and the profound influence they have had on the United States. Here, chefs Tino Feliciano, Jeff Martinez, Lourdes Castro and more share what being Latino means to them and how they demonstrate pride in their cooking and family traditions.

Tino Feliciano

Being a Hispanic in America means a great deal to chef Tino Feliciano and his family. “The fact that I was born in Chicago and of Puerto Rican descent automatically allowed my family to gain U.S. citizenship,” said Feliciano. “It gives me the feeling of a little more responsibility, pride, and a sense of obligation to both embrace my Hispanic heritage and value my U.S. citizenship.”

When he was seven years old, an excited Feliciano left Chicago to live in Puerto Rico. Even at such a young age, he admitted to not feeling Latin enough. “I felt as if I was losing out on a lot of things, so when I moved to Puerto Rico, I took it upon myself to do ‘Latin things,’” said Feliciano, who raised chickens, had a garden, picked coffee in the fields, and tended the sugarcane plantations. “I felt like a true Puerto Rican.”

These days, Feliciano has many opportunities as a chef, including travel and a contract with the Food Network and Cooking Channel.

“I can see the Hispanic influence in both television and the kitchen," said Feliciano. "Everywhere you go, it seems people are using Latin influences and ingredients in their creations. Although we have been hot for many years thanks to those who came before us, there is a great demand for Hispanics in a more protagonist role.”

Feliciano is proud of how far he and his fellow Hispanic chefs have come. From busboys and line cooks to chefs and owners of some of the most popular restaurants in America, Latin Americans have solidified their place in the culinary community.

“To me, Hispanic Heritage Month is a celebration of America; a remembrance of those who came before us that has allowed us to be proud,” he said. “It means that Hispanics have been and will continue to be one of the most important forces that have made this country what it was, is, will be until the end of time.”

Next, Jeff Martinez, Lourdes Castro, and more… [pagebreak]

Jeff Martinez

Chef and Texas native Jeff Martinez of El Chile was always surrounded by Hispanic heritage.

"Coming from San Antonio, Hispanic culture was all around me, but it was never a big deal in my house,” said Martinez. “My grandparents and some of the older relatives spoke Spanish and we ate Mexican food, but we also ate Tex-Mex and said ‘y'all." 

It wasn't until ten years ago, when Martinez opened El Chile that he started to focus on learning more about Mexican cuisine, which lead him to learn Spanish and delve deeper into his family’s culture and background.

“Through my career and through food, I have learned a lot about myself and my Hispanic heritage, and can now take more pride in that fact.”

Lourdes Castro

Chef and professor Lourdes Castro sees Hispanic Heritage Month as a reminder of those who came before her, specifically her Cuban relatives.

“My Cuban born parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents (all of which I was lucky enough to meet), make me stand a little taller when I think about them and all they contributed to our family; making sure we were grounded in traditional Cuban values, while at the same time assimilating to and ultimately succeeding in life in the U.S.,” said Castro.

Next, more chefs share… [pagebreak]

Douglas Rodriguez

Chef and cookbook author Douglas Rodriguez finds ways to celebrate his heritage every single day. The godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine is of Cuban descent and was raised in Miami after his Cuban immigrant parents came to the U.S.

“When I cook Latin American food for my family and friends, we sometimes share stories about the origins of the recipes,” said Rodriguez. “I also listen to Latin music and speak Spanish to my son, Dario.”

Rodriguez’s wife is from Puerto Rico, and he frequents the country often to visit her family. “Every time we go to Puerto Rico, there is always an excuse for a celebration, especially with food.”

Leon DeLeon

The Executive Chef at Eddie Merlot's Prime Aged Beef & Seafood knows a thing or two about his Latin culture. 

“Every September takes me back to being a little boy and allows me to remember how important my family and our Mexican heritage is,” said DeLeon, whose father was President of the Latin American Club. “It was a hectic time because it meant planning parades, making food, and organizing festivities,” he continued, adding that as a child, he watched his family make carnitas, fresh tortillas, chicharrones and elotes.

“Food is a huge part of my heritage and how we expressed a sense of community,” said DeLeon. “My father would always make a speech that inspired admiration for who we are, where we came from, what we had to overcome to get to this point, but most importantly, how we wouldn't succeed or prosper without one another.” 

Adrianne Calvo

For Miami-based Cuban American chef Adrianne Calvo, Hispanic Heritage Month is a time of reflection. 

"To me, Hispanic Heritage means celebrating and reflecting where I came from, where my family came from," said Calvo.  "It's a celebration of our celebrations and our sacrifices. Every time we are blessed enough to sit around an enormous table with a roasted pig, I think about what it took for my grandparents to leave a communist country, come to a foreign one, learn a new language, and hustle."