Two days before Christmas, chef Steve McHugh unveiled a gift for the hungry residents of San Antonio: His first restaurant venture, Cured, which opened in a 109-year-old building that once was home to the headquarters of the president of Pearl Brewing Company. The restaurant’s moniker was inspired both by McHugh’s triumph over two tumors caused by non-Hodgkins lymphoma and the house-made cured meats he’s elevated to an art form.
Raised on a Wisconsin farm with six brothers, McHugh’s culinary arts ambitions were ignited when he followed his older brother into foodservice to work as a dishwasher in a local tavern as a teen. His college career started with a music scholarship to play saxophone, but his passion for cooking soon led him to the Culinary Institute of America. As a lover of jazz and good food, the Big Easy was a natural choice for his CIA externship. So good was the fit that he groomed his skills over a decade with mentors like John Besh, Creole chef Chris Brown, and legendary restaurateurs Brennan brothers Dickie and Ralph. It was in bringing Besh’s German-style brasserie Lüke to San Antonio that he traded New Orleans living for the Lone Star State.
McHugh’s calling card is from-scratch menus that are “purposeful, powerful, seasonally-dynamic” with “conscious use of ingredients proven to empower the human body.” Avoiding food waste and utilizing animals “from snout to tail,” McHugh prepares his dishes with the utmost reverence both for each ingredient and the farmers who cultivated them. Locally-sourced libations and handcrafted cocktails using house-made bitters and syrups complement the cuisine. The chef says he seeks to share with others the same sense of support and warmth he recalls from his time spent on his family farm. “I want every person’s experience to be more than just a meal.”
Next up, five tips to make a stellar charcuterie board at home…
[pagebreak]Entertaining Made Easy
McHugh shares a Charcuterie 101 lesson with five tips for creating a savory spread for your next get-together, along with a special recipe for Sweet and Spicy Cabrito Sliders with Pickled Cucumbers you can serve on your menu.
What Latin meats and cheeses would be good to put together for a party tray when entertaining a group?
I love to make my own Spanish-style Chorizo and then pair it with Valdeón cheese, which is a rich, creamy, full-flavored Spanish blue cheese that works so well with the flavors of cured and smoked meats.
What are the best beverages to accompany a charcuterie board?
With our Charcuterie Board at Cured, I suggest pairing it with a nice hoppy beer, like Ranger Creek’s OPA, which is brewed right here in San Antonio. It’s classified as a pale ale and brings a really interesting flavor profile from its oats, giving a smooth, slightly sweet and nutty taste.
What condiments or starches should be served with it?
I always suggest serving an assortment of pickles — like the pickled cucumbers, along with two different kinds of mustards — one that is spicy and one that is a bit more mild — to appeal to different guests’ palates. I also like to add something sweet, like marmalade, and I’ll serve it all with a sturdy, rustic bread or grilled flat bread.
Do you have any cutting, plating, garnishing or serving suggestions for attractive presentation?
For presentation, I suggest cutting the bread and meats at an angle, or in different shapes to add visual intrigue. Using different sized containers for the condiments and accoutrements also adds to the presentation. Using bright ingredients, like pickles or marmalade with a deep berry shade can bring nice color to the entire spread.
How do I keep the charcuterie tray fresh over the duration of a party?
For hosts, I suggest refilling the board several times and putting smaller amounts out at a time. You can also make several platters in advance and keep them refrigerated and ready to be put out as needed.
Get inspired with McHugh’s recipe Sweet and Spicy Cabrito Sliders with Pickled Cucumbers.
Sweet and Spicy Cabrito Sliders with Pickled Cucumbers
- 5 pounds cabrito shoulders
- salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 6 cups julienned onion
- 2 cups sliced garlic
- 1 cup diced celery
- 1 cup diced carrots
- 2 bottles Alamo beer
- 1/2 cup liquid smoke
- 1 cup chicken broth