If you love Latin food, it's easy to become afflicted with the same syndrome that can infect any aficionado: the smugness of thinking you've seen, or in this case, eaten everything. The joy of discovery is replaced by the twin joys of knowing so much and eating the most extraordinary version of your favorite dish (preferably in an obscure, off-the-beaten-path place or by a chef with Michelin stars). And then, suddenly, you find yourself eating a generous serving of humble pie.
This is what happened to me a couple weeks ago when my husband suggested we take a trip to Sunnyside, Queens to try Paraguayan food at New York City's first, and until recently, only, Paraguayan restaurant, I Love PY. We arrived on a Saturday afternoon and jockeyed with Paraguayan expats for a couple spots at a table in the small storefront. As we waited for menus, we talked about what we knew of Paraguay. It wasn't much.